Air Ager (oz11552)
About this Plan
Air Ager. Free flight power model. Pylon layout.
Quote: "A super-strong, super-fast climbing gas model. Air Ager, by Francis Conant.
THE Air Ager is very conventional in design, and incorporates in her force set-up factors necessary for a very steep climb. Super-strong construction, that is so essential but largely neglected by designers of fast climbing gas models, is featured.
Fuselage: The body is constructed of 3/16 sq balsa strips. After building the first side, leave it on the plans and build the second half right over it to insure uniformity. Use plenty of cement, particularly around and in the splices of the longerons. When the sides are dry, remove them and check to see that they are exactly alike. Put a thin coat of glue on all the exterior surface of the butt joints between the fuselage uprights and the longerons. When this coating has dried, glue the ends of the fuselage halves together, and insert the cross-pieces at the top and bottom of the front of the fuselage sides. Insert the rest of the cross-pieces. and make sure that they are the exact lengths given on the plans. Work towards the tail of the fuselage. When all the cross-pieces have been glued in place, check their joints and apply additional glue where needed.
Cut the formers out of 1/8 sheet balsa, using the patterns given in the plans. Glue these formers onto the top and bottom of the fuselage, and make certain they are at the correct angle to the longerons. Make the stabilizer platform from 1/16 sheet balsa and the lower fin formers from 1/8 sheet balsa, and attach to the fuselage in the positions indicated on the plans.
Make the wing pylon from 1/8 plywood, and cut to the shape shown on the plans with either a coping or jig saw. Drill 1/16 holes where indicated on the plans, at an upward angle in the leading and trailing edge of the pylon, to depth of about one inch. Insert 1/16 diameter music wire into the holes, and cut off so that a half an inch projects from the pylon. Fill the holes with glue, coat the 1-1/2 pieces of wire with glue, and press into the holes. Collect the glue that will ooze out, and pat around the top of the wire and the edge of the pylon. Round off the edges, and attach the pylon to the fuselage, but make sure that it is perpendicular to the cross-pieces, and that it fits snugly in the former slots.
Now plank the top and bottom of the fuselage with either 1/4 x 1/16 or 1/4 x 1/32 strip balsa. Start from each side of the pylon and work outwards to the fuse-lage sides. If care is taken in planking around the stabilizer fairing on the top of the fuselage, a very smooth and realistic job can be done. Only plank up to the last former on the bottom of the fuselage, as the lower fin is covered with 1/16 sheet balsa.
When the planking is finished, install the gussets where indicated in the plans. Finally insert 1/16 sheet between the first two uprights on both sides of the fuselage.
Motor and Ignition: Cut the motor bearers from 5/16 sq spruce or basswood. Find the correct length from the plans. Cut two firewalls from 1/8 plywood, and from one cut out an area the same size and shape as shown on the plans, with a jig or coping saw. Now on the other firewall, glue 1/8 sq strips of balsa in such a way that when the two firewalls are pressed together, they will be keyed to each other. Solidly glue the firewall with the rectangle cut out of it against the first uprights and cross-pieces and formers, so that its outline conforms with the front of the fuselage. Now locate on the other firewall the position of the motor bearers, and openings for them, 5/16 sq to pass through. Four small nails should be hammered into the side of the firewall glued against the fuselage, two to each side, placed at the top and bottom.
When the motor unit is to be installed, rubber bands can be hooked onto the nails, and then wrapped back and forth across the top and bottom of the removable firewall. The distance between the bearers and the amount they project beyond the removable firewall is suitable for a Forster 29 engine, but the bearers can be altered to fit any other Class B or small Class C engines. Force the bearers through the firewall holes, glue, and add all necessary gussets (from 1/8 pine sheet). These will vary slightly if a different engine is used and on the position of the timer.
When the bearers have dried, drill the holes for the engine bolts. It is very convenient to have the timer mounted underneath the motor bearers and next to the firewall. To do this, make one of the exterior gussets with a hole in it of the same diameter as the barrel of the Austin timer.."
Air Ager, MAN, April 1944.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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