Morane Saulnier Type N (oz11544)

About this Plan

Morane Saulnier Type N. Radio control scale model WWI scout monoplane.

For electric power with Speed 400 size motor, and 3 function radio.

Update 06/04/2021: Added article, thanks to RichardL.

Quote: "A 42 inch (1067mm) scale model of an early WW1 fighting scout, designed for geared 400 size motors and three function R/C, by Peter Rake.

Although the Morane 'Bullet', as it was known by the RFC, may not have actually been that great an aircraft, it does, however, make a very interesting and fairly simple subject for scale modelling.

This model is something of a departure from my usual, totally conventional, building techniques in that it actually uses some foam and glass fibre items. This was more or less forced on me by the need to produce a working spinner for the model. It started as just an experiment to find out how easily, or otherwise, this could be done but worked so well that I decided to build a model to go with it. Perhaps I'll try something like an Albatross Scout next.

With the exception of the spinner and cowl, which I'll deal with in some detail, the rest of the model is of completely conventional construction, even if some of the methods used seem a little strange. Since, if you're considering this model, you do actually know how to build (you do don't you?), I'll keep the instructions brief and not bore you with long drawn out details of something you already know how to do.

La casserole: No, you can put the saucepan away again. This refers to the French nickname for that enormous spinner. The techniques for the spinner also apply to the cowl, so I'll only cover making the spinner here. You should be able to sort out the cowl without my help, once you know how it's done. The first job here is to cut out a disc of 3/32 (2mm) liteply to the size of the rear edge of the spinner and fit a bolt securely to the exact centre. Make sure that the bolt is no bigger than the shaft of your prop driver. It could make centring the whole assembly a bit difficult otherwise.

Next cut a 2 inch (51mm) thick disc of blue foam, again to the size that the spinner will be. Relieve the centre of this to clear the bolt head and glue the foam to the ply disc. Only glue it around the very outside edge, because you'll need to remove the centre of the ply disc once the spinner is done. Using the bolt as a mandrel to mount things in an electric drill, hold a coarse sanding block against the spinning blank and sand it gradually to shape. Change to a fine sanding block to finally smooth it all off.

We now have to toughen up the spinner and for this we use 1/2 oz (14 gm) glass cloth and epoxy skinning resin. Warm the resin slightly to help it flow better and proceed to build up four layers of cloth over the foam. Don't use too much resin as this will only add weight and give a less smooth and more difficult to sand surface. Use a piece of stiff card to squeegee out as much resin as possible.

During the glassing process, you'll need to make sure that no creases or wrinkles form in the cloth. Keep stretching it over the mould to get rid of them. Once the resin is completely dry, the whole surface of the spinner should be lightly sanded smooth ready for priming.

Now, of course, we have to make provision for the prop to fit. Make a template to fit over the prop blade at the right place and mark and cut out the two notches in the spinner for the prop. After this, cut around the ply backplate at about 1/4 in (6.5mm) in from the edge and remove the centre piece. Retain this bit, as it will form the back plate once the prop and spinner are mounted onto the motor.

Carefully remove just enough foam to clear the prop and prop nut. Try to get this as even as possible or you could end up with a balance problem..."

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