Grumman F3F-1 (oz11527)
About this Plan
Grumman F3F-1. Rubber scale model 1930s US Navy fighter biplane.
Quote: "Building the Grumman Fighter, by PAUL W. LINDBERG Model Editor and Model Designer for POPULAR AVIATION.
OUR model for this month features one of the Navy's latest shipboard fighters. All details have been highly developed in order to give you an authentic model in every respect. All con-trols are movable because of aluminum hinges. Due to improved streamlining, the Grumman performs beautifully.
Fuselage: silver with red hand around fuselage behind cockpit.
Cowl: front red, rear silver.
Wings: lower panels all silver; top side of top panel: Navy Yellow; bottom side of top panel: silver.
Tail surfaces: green.
Details: black and silver.
CONSTRUCTION OF FUSELAGE: First, place waxed paper on top of plan to prevent parts from sticking to it. The fuselage sides are built from 1/16-inch square balsa. The longerons, verticals, diagonal braces, etc, are held in place until securely cemented by inserting straight pins on either side of strips wherever needed. When the two sides arc com-pleted, the crossmembers are cemented into their proper locations. Check carefully front to rear for alignment.
Cut the formers from 3/32-inch sheet balsa and cement in their respective positions as shown on the plan. The position of all stringers is clearly shown on the formers. See plan. Work stringers from front to rear and check carefully to see that they have the correct spacing.
CONSTRUCTION OF MOTOR: To form cylinders, wind heavy thread around balsa blocks which have been cut and sanded to shape. The crankcase is made from two separate blocks. Rocker-arm, housings and pushrods are also made of balsa. Details of these parts are clearly shown on plan.
CONSTRUCTION OF WINGS: Cut all ribs from 3/32-inch balsa. Pin the spar in position on the plan. Now, cement ribs in their proper locations. The leading and trailing edges are cut and sanded to shape and cemented to the ribs. The panels carry movable ailerons which are a great help in controlling the flights. Make wing tips from 1/16-inch balsa. We highly approve of this type of wing tip, because it is much easier to construct and neater in appearance.
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER: These are built from 1/8-inch square and flat balsa, and are constructed on the plan. Their construction is very simple, therefore no difficulty should be encountered here.
LANDING GEAR: Study plans carefully and construct landing gear parts from strong balsa. Wheel well is made from balsa backed with balsa veneer or stiff paper. Reinforce all landing gear struts with piano wire.
COVERING THE MODEL: Apply tissue to the various framework members, using a light grade of model air-plane dope to fasten it to the outer edges. Stretch tissue as tightly as possible to re-move all wrinkles. When edges have dried, apply coat of water to tissue. When all water has dried completely, tissue will become taut. May we suggest that you pin wings, elevator and such upon a flat surface to keep from warping.
ASSEMBLY: After the landing gear has been at-tached to the fuselage, carefully cut to size all wing struts so wings will fit accurately in position. The elevator and rudder can now be cemented to rear of fuselage. All other details drawn on plan can now be applied. With an ordinary needle and thread all flying and brace wire are easily installed. Please keep in mind that the details add to the appearance of the model.
TESTING AND FLYING Two types of propellers are used on this model. One is made of fiber, which has a much wider blade in order that the rubber motor will turn at less rpm enabling the model to fly a greater distance. By twisting the blades, the pitch can easily be adjusted. The balsa scale propeller is used for exhibition purposes only. Six strands of 1/8 inch flat rubber are sufficient to fly the model.
With the rubber motor and flying pro-peller in place, gently launch your model over tall grass, to see whether it is properly balanced. If model glides a short distance, and nose rises abruptly, it will be necessary to add weight to bottom of nose block. If model dives add weight to tail. After the model is balanced to glide at an even angle, you are ready to test your model under power.
In making the test flight, the principal thing to avoid is damage to your model. Gliding and flying it over tall weeds is the safest, because the weeds or tall grass break the fall gently in case that the model should stall or dive.
A few trial flights will acquaint you with the ship, and all other adjustments can be made through the adjustable control surfaces."
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