About this Plan
Viking. Indoor rubber model.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 27/06/2020: Added (later) article from Aeromodeller, October 2015, thanks to RFJ.
Quote: "Viking, by Ray Malmstrom. A small 15 inch span rubber powered FF design suitable for indoor and calm outdoor conditions. With thanks to Bryan Gostlow and Chris Strachan of the IVCMAC.
For long term readers of AeroModeller, Ray Malmstrom will need no introduction. He was a contributor to AM from the mid-1940s, producing cartoons and quirky small flying model designs. After service in the RAF in WWII he became an art teacher at Impington Village College (IVC) just outside of Cambridge, and he was also the founding member of the IVCMAC Model Aircraft Club. You can find a biography on Ray by searching on the American AMA website modelaircraft.org/.
Ray died in 2001 but his spirit is still very much kept alive by today's IVCMAC members. On Sunday 1st November there will be a large indoor event using two halls at Impington Village College, which will include a competition for this Viking design - so you better start building! There will also be a talk by AM Inside Indoor contributor Clive King on building and flying his INDIGO indoor duration model which will be the Free Plan in the next issue of AeroModeller.
Ray's pretty little Viking design has not been widely available before, and with the help of Bryan Gostlow and Chris Strachan we have put together the free full-size plan and a build article. Designed as FF and rubber powered, I'm sure we will see variations using electric power and even micro RC. So on to Bryan Gostlow's description of the build.
Tail Feathers: It has been a while since I last built one of Ray's designs and so I thought I'd begin with the tail-feathers, to get my eye in. I made a copy from the plan and, covering it with cling film, mounted it onto a small plywood building board and pinned on straightedges above and below. Rather than use just one scalpel I like to have two: one with a fresh blade and labelled 'Sharp' and a second `PDS' or Pretty Damned Sharp and used most of the time. That way, when you need to make a precise cut, you always have a near perfect edge to hand.
Leading and trailing edges I left long, trapping them against the straightedges (rulers in my case) with pins before cutting ribs to fit. Don't use a pencil to mark the rib length, instead fit one end in place and mark off where to cut with a scalpel. Fit all the pieces dry.
Then I squeezed enough PVA into a plastic lid and cut and shaped a length of 1/16 as a glue stick. Taking each rib in turn I applied a small amount of PVA to each end, fitted one end (to make sure some glue went to where it was needed) then removed it to fit the other end..."
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