About this Plan
Keil Kraft Skylon. Free flight contest power model. Wingspan 38 in, wing area 195 sq in.
Quote: "The SKYLON is a tough, easy-to-build design that will stand up to anything of comparable size and power yet developed in Europe or America. In addition to the powerplants mentioned on the plan, any other of up to 1 cc capacity may be used - including the Elfin .5, Frog 50, Moth .85, and most of the American Half-A glo-plug motors.
If you have a Dart .5 or an Elfin .5 build the long nose fuselage (see plan for F1 and F2 bearer cut-out alterations). In the case of an Amco .87, Mills .75 or ED Bee model, make the short nose fuselage (bottom of plan). The bearer cut-outs in F1-F3 are correct for these last three engines.
A pair of long-nosed pliers and plenty of used razor blades (or a KK modelling knife) are required. Pin the plan to the building board with drawing pins and prevent the parts from sticking to it by building over the top of grease-proof paper. Carefully separate the pieces of strip with a razor blade. Where parts are built flat on the plan, hold them in position with tine steel pins.
1. Begin by building the left hand tip panel (immediately above). Cut leading and trailing edges from the long 1./16 thick strips and pin lower pieces flat on plan (see sketch and note use of pins). Trace tip pattern (top view) on to one of the pieces of 1/2 x 3/8, trim to shape and pin in position. Add the lower 1/8 sq spar. D1 dihedral brace and pin the dihedral angle template (for W8) to the plan. Now cement the W8 -W12 ribs to leading edge, spar and trailing edge. Check that ribs W9 - W12 are vertical and add upper 1/8 sq spar, D2 dihedral brace and upper leading and trailing edges.
2. When dry, tilt completed tip panel until end rib (W12) is 2-3/16 above plan and pack up with books. Check with a square that tip leading edge is still level with the plan. before starting to build left hand inner panel. Start by pinning down lower leading and trailing edge pieces and cementing W7 firmly to W8. Follow with lower spar, ribs W1 - W6. upper spar and upper leading and trailing edges - in that order. Obtain the correct root rib (W1) tilt with dihedral template and reinforce W2 with 1/8 sq set flush with lower surface.
3. When dry, tilt completed inner panel until the W7 rib is 2-3/8 above plan and again check leading edge for correct alignment. Now build right hand inner - panel, wait until dry and then tilt until centre rib (W1) is 3-1/4 above plan. Complete main wing structure by building right hand tip panel, wait until dry and the remove from plan
4. Cut 1/8 in deep recesses in the leading and trailing edges at the dihedral breaks and cement the four D1 and the D3 braces in position. Cover top of centre section (between W2 ribs) with 1/16 sheet. with grain running spanwise. Use narrow pieces of sheet, scoured along the centre line to achieve dihedral break. Carve tips to the correct sections and sand the leading and trailing edges as indicated - leaving the underside quite flat where it will rest on the pylon platform.
1. Construction is basically similar to that of the wing. Start by tracing the leading and trailing edge .patterns on to the remaining 1/16 thick strips. Join the upper pieces flat on the plan, remove and repeat for the lower pieces. Add the T1 - T5 ribs, checking that all are vertical, then follow with the 1/8 sq platform supports (between T1 and T2 ribs). Ce-ment the upper 1/8. sq. spar and upper leading and trailing edge pieces in position. Fill in the gaps between the platform supports and the upper spar with small pieces of 1/8 sq.
2. Cut notches in central fin to accommodate the tailplane spar and trailing edge. Sand smooth, round off the edges and slot between the two T1 ribs to check for vertical alignment. When dry, lift up tailplane from the plan and sand the leading and trailing edges to shape - leaving the underside flat where it will rest on the tailplane platform. Pin tip fins in position and sand the tops until the profiles match up with the tail-plane tips (T5). Note that the three fins are cemented to the tailplane AFTER covering. Bend the 'L' hold-down wire to shape and press triangular portion into the trailing edge at centre. Well cement and cover over with a silk patch.
1. Begin by pinning the shaped 1/8 sheet pylon flat on plan (over appropriate basic frame) and cement pieces of 1/2 x 1 /8 to either side. Add 'D', 'E' and the curved nose pieces ('B' and 'C' - or 'I'). Pin larger portion of 'G' in position and cement 'F' to it. Add upper 3/16 x 1/8 and lower 1 /8 sq keels.
2. Make tailplane attachmcnt tube by rolling gummed brown paper round 1 /8 dia dowel - greasing dowel and then winding paper spirally. Alternatively, use 1/8 inside dia aluminium tubing. Cut dowel in two and cement to front and rear increased incidence if a motor of 24 ounces or over (such as ED Bee) is being fitted.
3. LONG NOSE VERSION: Replace bearer cut-outs and join F1 and F2 halves again. Trace Dart (and Elfin) bearer positions on to these formers and cut out. Cement one of the 'H' pieces to pylon and 'B'. Pin 'Z' packing pieces to plan (at nose) and lightly cement the bearers (3-7/8 long for Dart and for Elfin) to them. When dry, add the three formers, checking that each is vertical and that the inner faces clear the plan by 1/16 in..."
Scan from DBHL, cleanup by theshadow.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Planfile includes build instructions.
Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)?
That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction
Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email email@example.com
User commentsNo comments yet for this plan. Got something to say about this one?
Add a comment
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
© Outerzone, 2011-2019.
All content is free to download for personal use.
For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.