Staudacher 300 GS (oz11461)

About this Plan

Staudacher 300 GS (Mike Goulian Special). Radio control sport scale aerobatic model. Wingspan 66 in, wing area 726 sq in. For .75 - 1.08 two stroke or .80 - 1.20 four stroke engines.

Quote: "My interest in the Staudacher was piqued when I realized an all-wood model could be made easily due to the shape of the fuselage. It would not be necessary to fabricate a fiberglass cowling with compound curves like the Extra. The model can be completely covered with heat shrink material. A three-view of the aircraft was measured and a set of plans for a .40-.50 size model was drawn using the wing from the successful Chips Akro II. A Mini IMAC 1/5 size model was made using a Saito .50 for power. That model was very successful and a joy to fly doing everything but unlimited.

Realizing there were very few scale models for the mid-range engine, I decided to design a competitive model around .60-.91 size power for flyers who didn't want a giant size model like the ones in IMAC competition today. The model presented here is the result of that effort. It is always time well spent when building a model from plans to cut out a kit of parts and get familiar with the plans before proceeding with the glue-up. If you care to save the plans it will be necessary to make copies by tracing all the parts. When finished, place the part on the respective wood with light tack contact spray cement and cut out.

Let's start with the wing: Lay wax paper over the wing plan, cut an angle on the ends of two pieces of 1/4 x 3/8 hard balsa and pin in place. Pin 1/4-inch square strip on the plans at the rear jig line of each panel. Use a 1/2-inch dowel and wrap wax paper around it securely; then lay up a 'paper mache' of brown wrapping paper and aliphatic glue to make the servo lead tubes. When dry, place ribs 6 to 1A on the tube and pin the ribs in place over the plan for each panel. Pin the remaining ribs in place securing them to the spars and the 1/4-inch jig strip.

Place the 1/4 x 3/8 bottom spar in the rib slots. When satisfied with the fit of all the joints, glue up with CA glue. Glue the front 1/4-inch spar in place. Cheek the trailing edge (TE) of all the ribs with a straight edge and carefully sand any that are long. Pin the 1/4 TE to the ribs and check with a straight edge on top of the TE to make sure it is true and straight before gluing. Check the leading edge (LE) of the ribs with a straight edge and trim where necessary.

Cut two strips from 1/6-inch thick balsa for the inner LE. These strips, 29-1/2 inches long, taper in width from 9/16 to 5/16 inch. Pin and glue the inner LE only to rib 1B and rib 11 at first; using a straight edge to align it, then pin it to the remaining ribs and glue with thick CA. Using a small plane, carefully cut a taper on each TE and LE to conform to the shape of the ribs, then sand smooth.

Install the 3/32 x 1-1/2-inch trailing edge sheet. My preferred method was using aliphatic glue in one of those neat Sig glue guns, and thick CA on the TE spar. Pin the sheet securely. Cut the LE sheet to the rough shape of the panel, leaving about a 1/4-inch overhang at the LE. Using aliphatic in the glue gun, run a bead on each rib..."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 23/08/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Supplementary file notes

Article, thanks to RFJ.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)? That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction