About this Plan
Lecky. Radio control model for electric power with cheap buggy motor. Wingspan 53 in (or clipped wing at 48 in).
Quote: "Dennis Tapsfield's simple to build aerobatic/soarer uses a basic and cheap Ferrite buggy 22-turn motor, standard radio gear and a 7 cell flight pack, easy to charge from 12 volts (car battery). All up weight 44ozs. KEEP IT LIGHT!
This model was designed for 6 good reasons:
1. To be easy to launch on one's own - eg high wing.
2. Cheap to build and operate.
3. Reasonably aerobatic on rudder and elevator.
4. To be flown over rough fields if necessary.
5. To use a 7 cell flight battery eg no Mega Bucks charger required.
6. To use a cheap Ferrite buggy motor, in this case a 22 turn Club 10 Schumacher buggy 540 that costs around £6.00 ($10.00).
This is one of my more recent forays into the world of electrics (my last was in 1974). I can put it in the car, 2 minutes up the road, onto the field, switch on and fly. 10 minute flights are the norm - if you catch a thermal, even longer. I have 2 or 3 charged flight packs with me, if I wish to fly more, I charge them up from the car battery.
If the area is a rough field, I remove the landing gear and belly land it perfectly safely.
I do not claim it to be anything special in looks but it does fly well. It climbs away well from a hand launch, to a height where you could easily catch a thermal and soar with the smaller wing, even better with the bigger one. Snap rolls are quick when combined rudder and elevator are applied, loops are really sharp from level flight, stall turns are good, it spins very well with the CG (balance point) where shown on the plan coming out instantly on neutralising the controls. It's not too good on inverted flight, mainly due to the thick wing section but you can't win 'em all!
THE WING: Decide on which wing you need - clipped or standard (48 or 53 in). It is most aerobatic with the clipped (small) wing.
Commence by making the main spars from the 1/2 x 1/4 in hard balsa and gluing the 1/8 x 1/4 spruce top and bottom. It is best to use PVA glue for this. Bind the spars with a soft cord or string and check for straightness while the glue is still wet. Set aside and allow to dry. Cut all the standard ribs - 14 or 16 - from 3/32 sheet and the 4 centre ribs from 1/8. Make the dihedral braces from 1/8 hardwood (not ply!). Clean up the spars and glue dihedral braces onto one spar.
When set, take it and pin it in place on the plan together with the 1/16 x 1-1/4 bottom trailing edge. Make sure that the ribs are not too tight a fit on the spar as this could distort the wing. Glue the ribs in place on the spar and trailing edge and the 1/4 x 1/4 leading edge and the top of the trailing edge. Allow the assembly to set. Glue in the other main spar between the dihedral braces at the correct dihedral angle. When set, build the second wing in the same way as the first. When all is set, sheet the centre section with 1/16 sheet, top and bottom, and add the wing tips. When all is set, clean up generally, shape the leading edge and PVA glue one layer of 1-1/2 in wide glass cloth over the centre join of the wing..."
Lecky, R/C Model World, September 1995.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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