Magnum 64-Cycle (oz11425)
About this Plan
Magnum 64-Cycle. Radio control sport model.
Quote: "Magnum 64-Cycle, by Dr JJ Makovich.
HERE IT IS, model fans, the debut of the Irish Air Force's first aircraft, the Magnum 64-cycle (don't believe it, it's blarney) in the green, white and gold of the Eire flag.
I've been flying a Magnum 40 for two years, powered by an OS .40 rear rotor pylon engine with a modified carb, and I haven't enjoyed a model as much in years. I happened to meet MAN's editor Dan Santich at our flying site and he told me he had designed the Magnum 40 (oz6790) in 1978 and published it in November of that year in another magazine. The Magnum 40 was a very popular plan, and was billed as a hot-dogger and a pussycat for fun flying in sport pylon. I foolishly suggested to Dan that I wished he would scale up the plans to .60 size. His reply was: Why don't you do it for an article in MAN? That was a challenge, so out came the drawing board and I set to work.
I enlarged the original plan outline 1-1/4 to 1 inch, resulting in a wing area of 760 square inches. The new model was designed to accommodate an OS .60 four-cycle, but a two-cycle .60 or even a hot .40 could be used. Unlike the original model, I designed a hatch for easy access to the fuel tank and a sliding tongue for the leading edge wing hold down. I also used a combination of balsa and 1/4-inch foam board instead of all-balsa for the fuselage.
Note the unusual airfoil. Dan calls it a reflex airfoil (whatever that is), which results in a model that goes where you aim it, is quite fast, and yet lands at a nice, easy speed.
CONSTRUCTION. The sides are cut from 1/4-inch balsa sheet and foam board. Use a spray contact cement to join foam and balsa, then add 1/4-inch square balsa stringers and cross braces from the wing trailing edge to the tail. Join the sides using F-4 and F-7, with 15-minute epoxy. Sand inside the fuselage at the tail section to produce a 1/4-inch thick joint to match the tail post, and epoxy in place. Now add F-8.
Next sand the nose, adding F-3 and F-2. Use epoxy and clamp to hold. Add the lower nose block (1/2 x 10-1/2 x 12-inch) triangular stock and doubler from F-2 to F-3. Epoxy F-6 in place with gear blind nuts and use white glue to secure the fuselage bottom.
Complete the fuselage turtledeck, but leave the side 1/4 sq stringers off. Cement them in last so you don't break them when sanding and handling.
Set the engine in its mount and center F-1. Build the upper cowling, using lite-ply cowl formers made from F-2, F-3, and F-4 patterns. Sheet with 1/4-inch stock. To shape the nose, use an old cut belt from a belt sander, used like a shoeshine rag. Drill a hole into F-2 and Hot Stuff 1/2-inch of yellow inside pushrod tubing into the ply. Thread a small screw into the tubing to secure the cowl hold-down washer.
Construct the stab, the elevator, and the tail wheel strut per the drawings.
For the wing construction, build a simple wing jig from two pieces of 1/2 x 10 x 3-inch pine. Tack both pieces together, place the rib pattern on the centerline, and drill 1/4-inch rod holes. Place the end pieces over the protected plan. Tack in place and proceed to build the wing. Glue the leading edge in place (white glue is fine), as well as the trailing edge and spars. Cut the ribs and webbing from 1/4-inch foam board. Glue 1/4 x 1/2-inch spars into the rib cutouts, add 1/16 x 4 x 36-inch leading edge sheeting and 1/16 x 1-1/2 x 36-inch trailing edge sheeting. Allow to dry, turn the jig over, and add the bottom sheeting.
Glue lite-ply supports for the aileron belleranks in between the ribs, and glue balsa to the ribs to produce a solid union..."
Magnum 64, MAN, November 1985.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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