Classical Gas (oz11416)
About this Plan
Classical Gas. Control line stunt model for Fox 35 stunt engine.
Quote: "Stunt ship with traditional lines offers simplicity and good windy weather flying. Classical Gas, by Clarence Haught,
Control-line stunters fall into two general categories, the modern or jet type aircraft and the traditional or classic style. After building and flying both types, I feel the classic designs provide a more realistic comparison to full-scale national and inter-national competitive aerobatic machines. I don't mean to imply that jet aircraft are not good pattern flyers, but there is just something about the specialized aerobatic machine performing a precise pattern in close view of the spectators. With the foregoing in mind, the 'Classical Gas' was designed along traditional lines.
This design is primarily intended for the stunt flyer graduating from the Ringmaster or Profile stunter stage to the full competi-tion ship and as such has certain design fea-tures to make this transition easier.
First of all, a 15% airfoil is utilized rather than the usual 18%. This is based on the premise that a 15% section will give a maximum lift, minimum drag characteristic. Any increase in thickness above this will only result in increased drag. Most advanced stunt flyers utilize the thicker section for a slower airplane at the sacrifice of penetra-tion. The advanced flyer avoids stalls, mush-ing, and engine troubles that plague the be-ginning stunt flyer, preferring the slower speed for a smoother-appearing flight. The beginner, however, is used to the faster pro-file stunt trainer and will find the Classical Gas considerably slower. Yet it has the speed for excellent penetration to assist him out of those awkward spots in which he so often finds himself. Increased penetration can also be a valuable asset in the wind where the slow ships seem to be more sus-ceptible to being blown out of overhead maneuvers.
Other features making this an ideal design for an 'advanced trainer' are removable landing gear for ease in realignment after hard landings, a simplified cowling system, and the absence of fillets and wheel pants. The exotic wheel pants seen on many stunters today are beautiful to look at but are impractical for use in grass where the novice should be flying. The plywood gear covers used on the Classical Gas are simple, rugged, and completely compatible with grass fields.
If you've ever carved a balsa cowl for a stunt ship the cowling system on this ship should be a welcome relief to you. It is strong, maintenance free, yet provides ample access to the engine and has the side benefit of providing a generous supply of cooling air flow around the entire engine. If there is one thing that construction articles for stunt ships have in common it's got to be the warning about selecting light wood. I'd like to go a step farther here and emphasize the fact that it is absolutely imperative that you build light. The original ship weighs 42 oz. However, I'm sure it would weigh over 50 oz. if I had not been weight-conscious at every turn. If you must order your wood by mail, by all means purchase contest grade balsa. If possible, sort through the wood at the hobby shop and select the lightest wood you can find while not sacrificing too much strength. I like to make weight saving a little game. You would be surprised what alternates you can come up with. It will pay off with better patterns, tighter cornering, and longer life.
Construction should begin with the wing and stabilizer assembly as these compo-nents should be complete before they are installed in the fuselage and become an integral part of the airplane. Begin by transferring the inboard and outboard rib patterns onto a suitable template material such as 1/16 plywood, aluminum sheet or tin from an old fuel can. After cutting the templates to shape and drilling the alignment holes, stack twelve 1/16 sheet rib blanks between the templates and secure them with two round-head stove bolts. Now with a sharp knife and a sanding block, half the ribs can be formed at one time. The spar and leading edge notches, and trailing edge relief may be cut with a file. I hollow the ribs for the inboard wing only to allow for leadout pas-sage. Repeat the above process for the other wing panel.
Cut the spars from medium 3/32 sheet and notch for ribs with a fine-tooth hack-saw blade or the edge of a thin file. Trailing edge width was held under 1-1/2 to allow truing up a 3 sheet and cutting both trailing edges from it. If possible, obtain 48 in wood for the trailing edges. If you must splice, alternate splices, and splice over a rib. Slip ribs into spars but do not glue yet.
Pin one trailing edge down to plan and glue ribs to trailing edge using white glue. I prefer this type of glue over conventional model cements, as it allows you a little more time to get things lined up. Add the upper trailing edge and the 1/4 in square leading edges..."
Classical Gas, American Aircraft Modeler, February 1970.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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