Bee Ware (oz11373)

About this Plan

Bee Ware. Control line combat model.

Quote: "West Coast Slow Combat machine can hold its own in most situations; aggressively piloted in contest, can do it all! Bee Ware, by

The 'Bee Ware' project started out with Slow Combat in the summer of '73. My flying partner, Larry Cargill, and I started working with airfoils. I had heard of some experiments which moved the airfoil high point forward. So I did some moving, en-ding at 20% with a blunt LE and a 98 mph machine that would turn like crazy. After learning more about combat, I wanted to get into Fast Combat; we used the same wing and many planes later settled on this design. The first two planes we built used a thin spar as in the slow planes, but we found these spars not strong enough. We blew off the outboard wings when we got these machines into some super tight turns.

Since these first planes I have done a lot of experimenting with minor changes; the wing tips actually make the plane turn tighter: There is an unusual characteristic about this design, the faster it flies the better it turns. On two tests comparing this design with a very popular kit, the "Bee Ware" ob-tained 10 mph faster speed using the same engine, setting, fuel and propeller. The 'Bee Ware' must have a warp-free wing and the stab must be perfectly aligned. Our goal was to design a plane that would out-fly anything we had used and I feel we have achieved this.

I am not going into a lot of explanations on construction, as this is straight-forward and has been covered in previous Combat articles. I feel the 'Bee Ware' needs particular attention placed on the trim, so I will share with you what we have learned.

CONSTRUCTION: Here we are building a machine that must be as strong, light, and warp free as possible. While you are selecting wood, and cutting out parts, the following instructions need to be followed: Use 1/4 square spruce spars, select strong balsa for the TE, light for LE sheeting, select a 3/8 square balsa LE that is strong, and straight. Select firm balsa for the center ribs; one rib is cut off forward of the spars.

For the bladder compartment, build up wing, gluing all ribs to the bottom spar, making sure the engine mount assembly will fit snugly between the two center ribs, and making sure all ribs are lined up at the TE. Add lower TE sheet, and top spar. Now you are ready for the top TE sheet. To do this right the following will give you a good straight TE: With the wing on a flat building board with the TE on the edge of the board, glue and pin top TE in place pinning only at forward edge of TE and ribs. Now you will need a 34 x 1 inch piece of straight lumber. Lay this down on top of the TE making sure the TE is flush with the edge of the building board. Use clamps with only the slightest pressure to draw the two TE sheets together, while perfectly flat against the building board. Let dry over-night... "

Direct submission to Outerzone.

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