James Wot (oz11322)

 

James Wot (oz11322) by Robin James 1980 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

James Wot. Radio control powered glider. For geared Electroprop motor unit (Graupner 550?).

Quote: "72 inch span high performance powered glider for electric power and 3 function R/C. James Wot, by Robin James.

ELECTRIC FLIGHT deserves to be more popular (than it is). Perhaps this lack of attention is because the average club flyer is unaware of what it has to offer. The modeller arrives at the field without a large field box, half gallon of fuel, electric starter, etc, etc. He walks out to the field carrying only the transmitter and model. Switch on - the motor always starts first time - and away the plane goes. No need either to lay out a bungee, or find someone to tow.

A good performance is achieved by keeping the structural weight as low as possible, but with a moderate wing loading of 9-1/2 to 10 oz/sq ft. The prototype's structural weight is 12 oz and the all-up weight 2 lb 7 oz. An Eppler 385 section is used and proves to be very efficient on this tapered wing, resulting in a sinking speed only slightly faster than a good thermal soarer.

Construction. Fuselage: After cutting out the various sheet parts, the two fuselage sides are built up over the plan. Note the use of 1/8 in spacers between the sheet parts as the two fuselage sides are built, a precaution which ensures that the sheet is flush to the outer faces of the 3/16 longerons and spacers. Fit the wing supports, F3, F4, and the servo tray, then work towards each end of the fuselage fitting the cross members, next add the 1/32 ply bottom.

It is at this stage that the motor with its drive and propeller is installed, also the servos, pushrods and motor switches. The air intake is supported by a strip of ply as shown on the plan. Add the remaining areas of sheeting and other details as shown on the plan. I always add a tube, made from drinking straws joined with sticky tape, to the fuselage structure, to take the receiver aerial.

On a slow flying model such as this, where the control surface loads are low, the control horns can be made from 1/16 ply and the rear ends of the pushrods from 2mm aluminium knitting needles. These are joined to the balsa pushrods by drilling a hole down the centres of the pushrod and epoxying in the needle after roughening the surface..."

James Wot, Radio Modeller, February 1980.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary file notes

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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James Wot (oz11322) by Robin James 1980 - model pic

Datafile:
  • (oz11322)
    James Wot
    by Robin James
    from Radio Modeller
    February 1980 
    72in span
    Electric Glider R/C
    clean :)
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 24/06/2019
    Filesize: 709KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: Circlip, RFJ
    Downloads: 1463

James Wot (oz11322) by Robin James 1980 - pic 004.jpg
004.jpg
James Wot (oz11322) by Robin James 1980 - pic 005.jpg
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User comments

James Who? A model not to sneeze at, lest it shatters! Easy to strengthen with little effort and added weight, though :-)
Miguel Morao - 07/07/2019
I came across this intriguing design, the James WOT e-sailplane. As I have studied the plan, I am struggling to understand how the wing is assembled with the significant under camber that it has. The designer makes no mention as to how the wing must be jigged to keep parts in line and account for the under camber. Making use of an Adjust-o-jig is about all that comes to mind. Any other ideas?
Craig - 15/06/2024
A tapered wing with undercamber, not an easy project. The extremely thin trailing edge won't be easy, better to carve it to shape before assembly. The trailing edge will have to be shimmed up to maintain proper undercamber while pinned to the board. Spars are also tapered toward the tip. I would make them from spruce and be sure to install the shear webs for strength. I don't like the music wire joiners, but would use a more conventional plywood wing dihedral brace to have a one piece wing, delete the spar doublers, spruce spars will be strong enough. Install the top spars with wing pinned to the board, then turn it over for the bottom spars. The trailing edge has slots for the ribs, which you can make with a sanding block with the same thickness as the ribs. It ain't gonna be easy but it's doable, will make a beautiful model with more modern electric power. Should outclimb the buzzards.
doug smith - 15/06/2024
I have the original magazine which I bought with my own pocket money way back when ! And I have an original plan which I've been wanting to build for yrs ! I too have looked at that thin tapered trailing edge and tapered spars and delayed even starting this build but I think we sometimes doubt our abilities so this autumn I'm going to just get on and build it , failing to try is worse than trying and learning or something like that! I have considered hot wire cutting a foam trailing edge and using modern glass which would also be a first for me .
I hope to lay out the plans soon and crack on with it.
Chris - 16/06/2024
Thank you for the input, Doug.
Craig
Craig Diederich - 23/06/2024
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