About this Plan
Dude. Free flight power model.
Quote: "The Dude, by GWW Harris. Following on the simple beginner's petrol model featured in the March issue, we present a somewhat more advanced machine of 64 inch span for engines of 4-6 cc. The fine flying characteristics of this model make it ideal for competition.
WHEN this model was designed, special attention was paid to the following points:
C. Strength of structure.
D. Good and easy access to engine and its ignition system.
E. The ability to take hard knocks.
F. Mainplane mounting to be crash proof.
G. The tail unit to be light and rigidly fixed (experience has shown that all too often badly fitted tail units are the cause of smashed models and that rarely is the tail unit damaged).
H. Provision to be made for more than one type of engine fixing.
The designer also considered the possibility of scaling the design up to, say, 8 ft span for radio control work.
Provided the instructions-and drawings are followed and a little discretion is used no difficulty should be experienced in constructing this plane - so here we go. First of all study the drawing. Check up and see which will be the best way to mount your engine. Make yourself familiar with every detail, and the job will be an easy one.
Fuselage. Begin by laying a sheet of paper on the drawing; trace through the formers, numbering each one as you go along. Cut each of these drawings out, allowing about 1/2 in margin; do not cut the centres out yet. Now cement each drawing on to a sheet of 1/8 balsa. Keep the grain vertical. If the only wood available is soft it will be best to cement a sheet of paper on both sides; this will prevent it splitting during the cutting and other operations to follow.
Cut the formers out and slot them as indicated. Steam three lengths of 1/4 by 1/8 in hard balsa to the shape of the three master stringers A, B and C. A way to assemble the fuselage is as follows: obtain about
three feet of 2 in square deal and cut it up into lengths varying from 4 in down to 1-1/2 in. Nail these blocks 2 in apart on to a building board, keeping them square to a centre line, see plan.
A, B and C can now be fitted into the slots of the formers and the whole job squared up and cemented. Drawing pins pushed through the formers into the blocks will position them while the 1/8 by 1/8 stringers are fitted. (Avoid applying any undue bending forces to the stringers, otherwise when the fuselage is removed from the jig it may distort.)
The stringers should be fitted alternately from side to side (it may be necessary to steam some of the stringers). Now lift the fuselage away from the jig and fit the 1/4 by 1/4 in strips and the remaining stringers.
Study the fuselage drawing and then proceed to fit the various parts as shown. Note that one rear wing strut is staggered.
Undercarriage: Make up the undercarriage parts and assemble as follows: Cut out two stringers from each side of the fuselage between stations No.1 and No.2 to provide access for fitting the undercarriage legs.
Thread the legs into place and cement the whole job up ; all parts should be pre-coated with cement. Bind the ends of the legs with florist or brass wire, line up and solder. Fit the spreader bar landing wheels. Fill in the legs with balsa, cover with silk and dope. Replace the stringers.
Now fit the engine bearers. Unless your engine is intended to run inverted I advise you to fit it upright. In any case, keep the thrust line as per drawing..."
Dude, Aeromodeller, September 1945.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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