Pioneer Racer (oz11291)

 

Pioneer Racer - plan thumbnail image

About this Plan

Pioneer Racer. Radio control sport (non-scale) model.

Quote: "Free time? Try our free plan! A 3-function electric-powered scale look-a-like of an early racing monoplane for Speed 400/480 motors. Pioneer racer monoplane, by Peter Rake.

I must first point out that this is not a scale model. It was only ever intended to very loosely resemble the Nieuport racer of 1910, and I do mean very loosely. I wanted an easy to build model that actually looks like a scale model and would remain pleasant to fly, and I feel pretty successful. The model construction has been kept very simple and is an absolute doddle to build, but I have added enough 'scale' detail to make it realistic. As built the model is only really suitable for fairly calm weather flying, but she is very easy to fly - very enjoyable too being slow, stable and very nostalgia inducing.

However, for those who prefer more power, I have included on the plan the arrangement for installing the Speedgear 480 motor/gearbox unit as well as the 2.33:1 geared 400 as fitted to my model. You now have a choice - lightweight and fairly floaty, or a bit heavier and more powerful. The model is adequately strong for either version, in fact it was originally intended to have the more powerful set up, but this was already in another model. I'm happy enough with the result to be glad that I did go for the 400 option. It makes the model more suitable for flying from my local sports field.

Equipment: My model is quite light at about 27 oz. all up weight. All of the gear used in my model is not only very small and light, but also very reasonably priced. I used a Jed 4 micro Rx at about 1/2 oz (£35), two of the small Union Models servos at just over 1/2 oz for the pair (£17 each) and a Kontronic Easy 1000 speed controller, again at about 1/2 oz (£25). All of these items have proved themselves to be very reliable in several other models.

Power Train: The one item that I won't cut corners on is the Ni-Cad pack. For the 400 powered version use 7 x 500 AR cells or 7 x 800 AR cells in the 480 combination. I know there are cheaper cells about and I have used them in the past, but I have yet to find a cell that charges as well, delivers its power so effectively or lasts as well as the AR cells from Sanyo.

For these lightweight models I find the Graupner 2.33:1 geared Speed 400 motor/gearbox a difficult combination to beat. It's very easy to mount using a ply plate and will turn a good sized prop for long enough to make the flights enjoyable.

I like to use wooden props for their lightness and find the 'Master Airscrew Electric' range to be exceptionally good. Try a prop of around 10 x 7 to 11 x 8 initially, and then experiment with various makes and sizes until you find the one that suits your model and flying style.

Linkages: Experience proves that the lightest and best control linkage is a closed-loop system which are also very scale like on models like the Pioneer. A 25 lb breaking strain nylon monofilament fishing line is ideal. It's light, cheap and more than strong enough for the job. Its real advantage over nylon-coated trace wire is weight-saving. Models of early aircraft usually have long tail and short nose moments, so the more weight we can save at the rear, the less need there is for lumps of 'church roof' in the nose.

I run my closed-loops from 1/32 ply control horns direct to the servo output arms, saving the weight of devises and adjusters. It does take a bit longer to get
it set up correctly and the weight saving is only small, but it's still worthwhile as every little bit helps. The cables are looped through crimps and cyanoed, and may then be painted with enamels.

Construction: This has been kept simple, so provided you have built a couple of similarly fabricated models, or are prepared to study the plan carefully to work it all out, you should have no trouble. I'm a lazy builder; I enjoy the design stage as much as the building, therefore I tend to put quite a lot of thought into keeping it all quick and easy. With this in mind, a set of highly detailed stick A to B type instructions shouldn't be needed. If it looks as if that's how it's done on the plan, then there's a more than fair chance that it is how it's done. However, if this is your first plan built model, I will cover the general construc-tion method and give a few tips about how I did it.

Wings: You'll find that they don't take long to build once you have all the parts in front of you.

The tips are laminated from three strips of 3/16 x 1/16 balsa. Soak them well in water before adding PVA, and while damp tape together around a card template by securing the strips to one end of the template, and pull around under tension. Tape at intervals to the template. Make them about 1 in over-length at each end to allow for trimming to size when thoroughly dry. Don't even attempt to use them before they are completely dry or delamination may occur.

Before you start building, mark and cut the slots in the inboard end of the spars to take the wing tubes. Measure the height of the tubes in the spar from the side-view showing this. Then build the wing panels..."

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Pioneer Racer - completed model photo

Datafile:
  • (oz11291)
    Pioneer Racer
    by Peter Rake
    from RC Model World
    February 2000 
    46in span
    Tags: Electric R/C
    all formers complete :)
    got article :)
  • Submitted: 11/06/2019
    Filesize: 624KB
    Format: • PDFbitmap
    Credit*: theshadow

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* Credit field

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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