Pioneer Racer (oz11291)
About this Plan
Pioneer Racer. Radio control sport (non-scale) model.
Quote: "Free time? Try our free plan! A 3-function electric-powered scale look-a-like of an early racing monoplane for Speed 400/480 motors. Pioneer racer monoplane, by Peter Rake.
I must first point out that this is not a scale model. It was only ever intended to very loosely resemble the Nieuport racer of 1910, and I do mean very loosely. I wanted an easy to build model that actually looks like a scale model and would remain pleasant to fly, and I feel pretty successful. The model construction has been kept very simple and is an absolute doddle to build, but I have added enough 'scale' detail to make it realistic. As built the model is only really suitable for fairly calm weather flying, but she is very easy to fly - very enjoyable too being slow, stable and very nostalgia inducing.
However, for those who prefer more power, I have included on the plan the arrangement for installing the Speedgear 480 motor/gearbox unit as well as the 2.33:1 geared 400 as fitted to my model. You now have a choice - lightweight and fairly floaty, or a bit heavier and more powerful. The model is adequately strong for either version, in fact it was originally intended to have the more powerful set up, but this was already in another model. I'm happy enough with the result to be glad that I did go for the 400 option. It makes the model more suitable for flying from my local sports field.
Equipment: My model is quite light at about 27 oz. all up weight. All of the gear used in my model is not only very small and light, but also very reasonably priced. I used a Jed 4 micro Rx at about 1/2 oz (£35), two of the small Union Models servos at just over 1/2 oz for the pair (£17 each) and a Kontronic Easy 1000 speed controller, again at about 1/2 oz (£25). All of these items have proved themselves to be very reliable in several other models.
Power Train: The one item that I won't cut corners on is the Ni-Cad pack. For the 400 powered version use 7 x 500 AR cells or 7 x 800 AR cells in the 480 combination. I know there are cheaper cells about and I have used them in the past, but I have yet to find a cell that charges as well, delivers its power so effectively or lasts as well as the AR cells from Sanyo.
For these lightweight models I find the Graupner 2.33:1 geared Speed 400 motor/gearbox a difficult combination to beat. It's very easy to mount using a ply plate and will turn a good sized prop for long enough to make the flights enjoyable.
I like to use wooden props for their lightness and find the 'Master Airscrew Electric' range to be exceptionally good. Try a prop of around 10 x 7 to 11 x 8 initially, and then experiment with various makes and sizes until you find the one that suits your model and flying style.
Linkages: Experience proves that the lightest and best control linkage is a closed-loop system which are also very scale like on models like the Pioneer. A 25 lb breaking strain nylon monofilament fishing line is ideal. It's light, cheap and more than strong enough for the job. Its real advantage over nylon-coated trace wire is weight-saving. Models of early aircraft usually have long tail and short nose moments, so the more weight we can save at the rear, the less need there is for lumps of 'church roof' in the nose.
I run my closed-loops from 1/32 ply control horns direct to the servo output arms, saving the weight of devises and adjusters. It does take a bit longer to get
it set up correctly and the weight saving is only small, but it's still worthwhile as every little bit helps. The cables are looped through crimps and cyanoed, and may then be painted with enamels.
Construction: This has been kept simple, so provided you have built a couple of similarly fabricated models, or are prepared to study the plan carefully to work it all out, you should have no trouble. I'm a lazy builder; I enjoy the design stage as much as the building, therefore I tend to put quite a lot of thought into keeping it all quick and easy. With this in mind, a set of highly detailed stick A to B type instructions shouldn't be needed. If it looks as if that's how it's done on the plan, then there's a more than fair chance that it is how it's done. However, if this is your first plan built model, I will cover the general construc-tion method and give a few tips about how I did it.
Wings: You'll find that they don't take long to build once you have all the parts in front of you.
The tips are laminated from three strips of 3/16 x 1/16 balsa. Soak them well in water before adding PVA, and while damp tape together around a card template by securing the strips to one end of the template, and pull around under tension. Tape at intervals to the template. Make them about 1 in over-length at each end to allow for trimming to size when thoroughly dry. Don't even attempt to use them before they are completely dry or delamination may occur.
Before you start building, mark and cut the slots in the inboard end of the spars to take the wing tubes. Measure the height of the tubes in the spar from the side-view showing this. Then build the wing panels..."
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Did we get something wrong with these details about this plan (especially the datafile)?
That happens sometimes. You can help us fix it.
Add a correction
Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email firstname.lastname@example.org
User commentsNo comments yet for this plan. Got something to say about this one?
Add a comment
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
© Outerzone, 2011-2019.
All content is free to download for personal use.
For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.