Fosdyke Flyer (oz11276)
About this Plan
Fosdyke Flyer. Radio control sport (non-scale) model, for electric power with geared 400-size motor and 3 channels.
Quote: "Free time? Try our free plan! Fosdyke's Flyer. A 45 in span model of a vintage-style aircraft, designed for 3-function radio-control and a geared 400-size electric motor. By Peter Rake.
To dispel any confusion, it's not a scale model, simply a scale-like model for sports flying. I suppose it's always possible that there was an aircraft like it, but not that I know of - it does however, bear some resemblance to a couple of the early pioneering types and that's what it was intended to do.
When I set out to design a model I try to make it look as if it could have actually existed, and since the pre-1920 era is the period that I favour for my scale models, that's the way I like my sport models to look too. The model was designed to be simple both to build and to fly whilst retaining an air of realism. I feel that this particular model has managed to fulfil all of the design criteria admirably. It involves no complicated building, uses stock sizes of wood and easily available R/C gear and motor.
Three functions operating rudder, elevator and throttle control is best for this type of model. It not only avoids the complication of ailerons in the wing panels but also looks more scale-like. Most of these early aircraft were 'wing warpers' which is not practical on a model this size. So, with this in mind, I usually build a model that is stable enough not to need aileron control.
Equipment: Breaking from my usual practice I chose one of the more expensive in-line geared motors, a Graupner Speedgear 400. The main reason for this was to be able to enclose it easily within the dummy engine, you can also use low-cost mini or micro R/C. The Rx is a Jeti 4 micro, the servos are the 9-gram micro variety which arc available under a number of brand names and the speed-controller is a Kontronic Easy 1000. I have found this, or similar combinations of equipment, to be both reasonably priced and extremely reliable.
The one item I would not recommend cutting costs on is the Ni-Cad pack. I only use Sanyo 500 AR cells. They really do have a distinct advantage over many of the cheaper types of cell. Treated fairly harshly in my models they still keep coming back for more. With the possible exception of Ni-Cad choice, none of the above list is written in stone. You could always use a standard Rx and mini rather than micro servos. Do watch the weight though, it can soon double or even treble the weight of your R/C gear. This will mean that you have less scope for detailing your model.
Details: Some detailing is essential if you are to get the best from your 'Flyer'. Because of its very simple construction the model could end up looking very plain. It's only the detailing that turns her into an attractive and appealing little plane. Those very attractive and scale-like spoked wheels are commercially available from 'SAMS' - yes, the free-flight people. At about £10 a pair they represent very good value when you consider how long they would take you to make. They are really only strong enough for lightweight models like this one, so do try to keep the weight of your model to less than 25 oz (mine weighs 20 oz). They will work just fine and of course look superb.
The rigging, which forms such an important feature on an antique type aircraft, is from nylon fishing line. If you use a 25 lb breaking strain mono-filament line this will perform the task with ease. It adds scale appearance and also reinforces the wings whilst holding them in place. It has just enough stretch to allow the rigging to be hooked and unhooked from the pylons, but without allowing the wings to move in flight. Once installed it can be painted using enamels. I also use the same material for my closed-loop control cables. Run these direct from the 1/32 ply control horns to the servo output arms, thereby saving the weight of devises and adjusters. What appear to be turnbuckles at the pylons are small fishing swivels hooked into place. I'm a regular visitor to our local tackle shop, even though I don't fish.
The pilot is a modified Williams Bros item, as are the dummy cylinders. These were mounted onto the base of a small plastic bottle which is a tight push fit over the motor tube. The metal panelling on the nose of my model was simulated using aluminium Fibrefilm, with all panel line and rivet detail marked in with a fine tipped, all surface marker. This can then be lightly sprayed with varnish to fix it. This will save masking the nose area when you matt down your covering. Simply going over it again with gloss var-nish will restore its shine. This system worked even better than I expected.
Then for the instrument panel. Cut the basic dash from 1/64 ply and cut out the dial positions with a piece of sharpened brass tube, then stain it in whatever shade you prefer, I used walnut. The brass instrument bezels are slices of the same brass tube used to cut the holes. The instruments themselves are just drawn onto thin card and covered with acetate sheet prior to fitting to the back of the dash. Now that you have made up all the detail parts you should have a very powerful incentive to finish the model.
Wings: Once all the parts are ready, you'll find that the wings will build quite quickly and easily. Virtually all the information you will need is on the plan, so I'll just briefly run through it.
Using the side view, mark the position that the wing tubes will occupy in the spars and slot them accordingly. Then build your basic wing panels. When dry, lift from the board and fit the wing tubes. Brass tubes are strongest but aluminium tubes are lightest, so take your pick. A tip here is to use two lengths of piano wire to help make sure that the two sets of tubes line up. Imagine that the wires are the wing dowels and slip both wing panels onto them before the epoxy around the tubes has set. Now, having made sure that everything is straight and square, you should have no problems when you come to fit the wings to the model. Build up the spars over the tubes to flush with the top of the ribs and epoxy in place the 1/32 ply braces. The braces are very important so don't be tempted to omit any of them..."
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User commentsPeter R has composed an 18in variation in the same theme, opus oz10848.
Miguel Morao - 22/06/2019
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