About this Plan
Flit. Radio control model for electric power. Speed 280 Aerobat. Wingspan 29.3 in, wing area 152.5 sq in. For 4 channels.
Quote: "A 280 powered, four-channel aerobat. Flit, by Stefan Vorkoetter.
After having a lot of fun with my Sydney's Special, a scaled-down Speed-400-sized version of Vernon Williams' Fred's Special, I wanted something a bit more aerobatic and less trainer-like. I also wanted to see just how small a full-house (four channel) aerobat could reasonably be made, so I decided to design something. What I ended up with is the 9.1 oz (260g), 29.3 inch soan (74.4cm), Speed-280 powered Flit.
Don't let the Speed-280 motor mislead you. This is no park flyer, and definitely not a slow flyer. At over 50 W/lb, and with a level-flight top speed of about 40 mph, Flit is fast for a plane this size. With four-channel control and a flat semi-symmetrical wing, Flit can do anything the larger pattern ships do, only apparently faster. The low wing loading and shoulder wing location give Flit enough stability so nerves of steel and lightning reflexes are not required. If you're a Speed-400 sport flier wanting something a bit more exciting, the Flit is for you.
Construction:The Flit is a straightforward all-wood plane, built in more-or-less traditional ways. Being small, it doesn't require a lot of wood. To keep the weight down, use the lightest, stiff wood you can find. For adhesives, I used thin and medium CA. Let's start with the wing.
Wing: This is a one-piece wing. The leading edge, spars, and trailing edge are each a single piece. There is no wing joiner. Make a rib template out of card-board. Pin the template onto a 1/16 balsa sheet and cut around it with a sharp knife. Repeat 18 times. Take four of the ribs and trim 1/32 inch off of the top and bottom of each (use the template as a cutting guide). Also trim the alignment tabs off these ribs. These are the center section ribs.
Cover the wing plan with wax paper and pin the 3/4- x 3/16-inch trailing edge stock to the board. Mark the center section rib locations on the front of the trailing edge. Cut some 1/32-inch balsa, with the grain running spanwise, for the bottom sheeting between the trailing edge and spar. Glue it to the trailing edge and pin it down. Next, glue the 1/4 x 1/8 balsa bottom spar up against this and pin the spar down at various points along its length. Mark the center rib locations on the spar as well. Cut more 1/32 balsa to complete the bottom sheeting well past the front of the leading edge. Glue and pin it in place.
Install the four center section ribs. Make sure they are square to the sheeting. Use the marks you made on the trailing edge and spar as guides. Glue them only behind the spar for now. Next install and glue the remaining 14 ribs. When all the ribs are in place, trial-fit the top spar and glue it in place.
Cut to fit and glue-in the center section shear webs next. The grain should run vertically and the pieces should fit snugly between the ribs. The shear webs should stop 1/32-inch below the top of the spar..."
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