Hurry-Up 150 (oz11077)

 

Hurry-Up 150 - plan thumbnail image

About this Plan

Hurry Up 150. Rubber cabin duration model.

Originally published in Flying Models August 1950, this here is a later redrawing (circa 1980?) by Oldtimer Models.

Quote: "Here's a beautiful rubber-powered flyer that anyone can build - designed by an old master of the art. All of the plans are full-size! Hurry-Up 150, by Frank Zaic.

The Hurry-Up 150 is a contest design, cabin-type rubber model. Neat and pleasing to the eye, performance is increased, weight reduced, and building time short-ened, by simplified, efficient construction. Incorporated in this model is a fuse-type pop-up-wing dethermalizer, as well as an aerodynamical feature which makes flying and adjusting easy for the beginner.

The basic framework of the fuselage is shown on the plans in black. Lack of space prevented our giving you a complete top view, but you can obtain the sizes of the cross braces from the dot and dash outline shown on the side view. Join the two sides of the fuselage by starting at the center, and working outward toward the nose and tail. At the tail, taper the longerons as shown, to meet the 1/16 sheet rudder fin. Both sides must be even when making the stabilizer rest, in order that the wing and tail will align correctly.

Although the cabin construction is easy, you'd better study it awhile. Note the use of double up-rights to obtain strength. Also notice that some of the cross braces will not be in line with the uprights as is customary. See how dihedral angle clearance is obtained in the front by using ta-pered pieces and, in the rear, by employing a lowered cross brace.

The front portion of the fuselage is reinforced with 1/8 sheet balsa to counteract handling and abuse. Wind thread all around and cover it with cement to prevent the longerons from splitting open under im-pact.

The landing gear installation is simplified by 'boxing' or sandwiching the wire in place and using a lot of cement. You also can tie the wire to the longerons with thread. The rubber anchorage at the rear of the fuselage is self-explanatory. If you cannot find a fiber washer, use plywood, stiff paper or a sheet of hard balsa, but, whatever you use, the dowel should fit snugly. Lots of cement around this area adds greatly to the strength.

Leave the bottom of the fuselage open under the anchorage, to facilitate a quick rubber change. The 'ridge' and 'instrument board' (former A) , are shown full-size on the plans. Cut them from balsa as indicated..."

Scan from DBHL, cleanup by theshadow.

ref DBHL-5819.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 16/04/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Supplementary file notes

Article.

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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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