Arado 76 (oz10948)

About this Plan

Arado 76. Scale model of the German 1930's parasol light fighter and trainer, for rubber power.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Update 6/3/2022: Added article, thanks to DPlumpe.

Quote: "How To Build The Arado Trainer. By Paul Plecan. THE model presented this month is the German Arado 76 aerobatic trainer, the prototype of which is known for its maneuverability and quick recovery from spins and other abnormal atti-tudes of flight.

Powered with the popular Argus As-10-C inverted V-8 motor of 240 hp, the Arado attains a top speed of 170 miles per hour at normal altitudes, and lands at the comparatively low speed of 63 miles per hour. With an empty weight of 1554 pounds and a useful load of 628 pounds, the gross weight totals up to the figure of 2182 pounds. The climb is 1315 feet per minute, and the service ceiling is 20,998 feet.

The model has been accurately scaled down, both in dimensions and performance, and is very stable when provided with the flying scale stabilizer and prop shown in the plans. Due to the nicely arranged parasol wing, scale dihedral is used without loss of stability.

The construction is simple, and the method shown for making the ribs lightens the model for flying, yet permits a fine covering job to he done on the wing. After familiarizing yourself with the plans and details of construction, you may begin building.

Fuselage: The front and top of the fuselage are the first parts to be made, and there are two methods of making them. First, the nose block may be hollowed out the same as the top portion, which is called the 'turtle-deck.'

The second method is to hollow out the nose block, assemble the rest of the fuselage framework behind it, and build up the turtle-deck by cementing the proper formers in their places and covering with sheet balsa.

The first mentioned method, that of hollowing out all the parts, is simpler, and beginners should use it. After the balsa blocks of the required size have been procured, the side view of the fuselage front should be traced upon them by piercing the lines on the plan with pins, or traced on with the use of carbon paper. After carving to the shape shown in the side view, the blocks should be trimmed down to the cross-section shown in the front view.

The nose block may be hollowed out with a knife or a gouge, care being taken that the proper thickness is obtained. The best way of approximating the thickness of the wood is to put it next to a powerful light, the thinnest parts being visible by the greater amount of light they admit through the wood.

The turtle-deck is carved and hollowed in the same manner as the nose block, and after the two are finished they should be cemented together. The two fuselage sides should be made now and the cross braces cemented in.

It will be found that the fuselage will have a smaller tendency to warp if the two bottom longerons are moistened before forming, so that when they are dry they will retain their bent shape without putting a strain on the other parts of the fuselage. Since the nose block has already been finished, the rear built-up portion can be cemented to it and set aside to dry.

If the modeler wants to make the built-up type of turtle-deck, it may be constructed now on top of the rear of the fuselage instead of cementing the hollowed out type on. While the fuselage frame is drying, the landing gear struts may be formed, and the wheel pants made. The wheel pants need no explanation, as they are of the type with a hollowed-out core and sheet balsa sides..."

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