Fred oz1092

 

Fred - plan thumbnail image

Fred - completed model photo

This plan was found online 20/05/2011 at: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265873&page=270
Outerzone planID: oz1092 | Filesize: 110KB | Format: • PDFbitmap | Credit*: WMD, algy2

   

About this Plan

Fred - Peanut scale homebuilt parasol. The subject FRED (Flying Runabout Experimental Design) is a 1960s WV-engined homebuilt plane, designed by Eric Clutton.

Quote: "A peanut scale replica of Eric Clutton's famous homebuilt light aircraft. By Siegfried Glockner.

FRED is the abbreviation for Flying Runabout Experimental Design. The aircraft is designed for recreational weekend and evening flying, not as a fast cross country plane.

Its thick high lift wing section (Goettingen 535) gives the plane safe stall characteristics, but not high speed. Except for high stressed parts like cabane struts, landing gear, hinges, etc, the aircraft is built from wood. Recommended engine is a 1500 cc Volkswagen engine or equivalent power plant.

Fred can be towed behind a car and stored in one half of a double garage, thus saving hangar fees. The horizontal tail and rudder are detachable and fit inside a small car. With the wings folded alongside the fuselage, FRED can be towed on his own wheels behind the same car to the owner's garage.

The model. The P-Nut version of 'Fred' is built in conventional manner and needs no detailed description. Some perhaps unorthodox construction sequences are thoroughly described.

Fin and Stabiliser: These are built from 1mm square balsa strip over the plan.

Wing: Wingtips are laminated from 0.5 x 1 mm balsa strips to be light and strong. Note thicker ribs W2 at centre section. Drill holes for cabane attachment into W2 before they are glued into wing construction. The centre section is to be sheeted with thin balsa, 0.4mm thick, from leading edge to the spar to simulate the fuel tank. Do not forget rigging point attachments.

Fuselage: Construction is from 1 mm square balsa. Build the right fuselage side on the plan, cover it with clear plastic (household) film. Build the left side on the right fuselage side to get two identical fuselage sides. Note the front end: the top longeron extends to the nose former F1, the rest of the nose area is filled with imm sheet balsa, cut to size. Add rigging point reinforcements. Glue F1 between fuselage sides. Glue fuselage sides at rear end together..."

Update 13/04/2018: added article, thanks to RFJ.

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oz1092 datafile

Fred  
by Siegfried Glockner
from Aeromodeller
September 1983 
13in span
Tags: Scale Rubber F/F Parasol Civil
all formers complete :)
got article :)

 

003.jpg
003.jpg

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User comments

If anyone is considering building this model I can say that I built one some years ago using split rib wing construction and good materials but otherwise as per the plan. Weight was under 6 grams and flight times were consistently around the 60 second mark on 1/16 tan II. Lovely slow flat right hand pattern. ROGs were not good due to the High angle of attack caused by the lengthened U/C (a real FRED sits quite flat) so hand launches were the order of the day. A real FRED also has a high lift Gottingen wing so it would be interesting to bash this plan into a more serious scale version to see how it would go. We have a very nice full size FRED here in NZ: ZK-FRD which features a scalloped fin with Fred Flintstone on it.
mikem - 03/07/2014
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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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