Mooncrest. Sport biplane model for Jetex 100 power.
Quote: "ALTHOUGH there are now signs of a large growth of interest in biplanes, in the past the majority of modellers have either been reluctant to build that extra wing or have felt that biplanes are difficult to trim. Taking a deep breath and dodging the bricks that the last sentence will probably call forth from all and sundry, the designer of the little jet-biplane described here hastens to say that the Mooncrest is very simple to construct, has no vices regarding trimming, and in common with most successful biplanes has a rapid and steady climb to its maximum height (not a corkscrew one so beloved of the over-powered pylon brigade!)
All the materials required will probably be found in the scrap box and an evening or so's work will be sufficient to complete a little model which I guarantee will provide either yourself or your young brother with a good deal of fun.
Although the original model has not yet hooked a 'riser' (times in still evening air vary between 45 sec and a minute) there seems no reason, considering the height gained during the 18 seconds (approximately) power run, why it should not. Thus after putting on the last lick of dope, add your name and address. You feel like grabbing your building board ? Good, then here we go.
Fuselage: The outline should be traced on to 1/4 in balsa sheet and carefully cut out. Note the small notches on the top section which accommodate the rubber bands retaining the mounting block and Jetex 100 clip. Add the fuselage sides and fit a small celluloid wheel in the recess. Cement former A very firmly in place. The cabin is covered with cellophane and for the semi-scale fans (of whom I am one) a profile pilot can be added and painted with poster colours. Complete by adding the wing mounts, seating strips and dowels. Give one coat of clear dope and colour-trim to taste.
Engine Mounting: The engine mounting block and clip fit into a recess on the fuselage. Care should be taken to see that the mounting block is a push fit into this recess. The mounting block and clip is held from movement sideways by two rubber bands. It is important that these bands should be tight and always examined before flying. The complete block and clip can be swung through 90 degrees outwards to enable unit to be loaded.
Wings: The wings are of simple construction and both may be built in a very short space of time. Cut the upper and lower mainspars from 1/16 sheet. Build both wings in two halves and then cement together. Sheet in the centre-section of the lower wing. When water-stretching and doping do half a wing at a time and keep pinned to a board to avoid warps. Warping at any time is fatal, and you get double your ordinary ration on a biplane if you are not careful!
Fin and Tailplane: These are cut from 1/16 sheet suitable lightened. Do not dope tail assembly. Cement in place on fuselage and add trim tab. The total all-up weight of the model should be approximately 1-1/2 oz.
Flying: Test as usual over long grass. Alter the incidence angles if necessary to obtain a flat glide. Test glide with the unit unloaded. Half charges should be used for the initial tests. If the model stalls slightly under power, insert a small amount of downthrust between the fuselage and the mounting block. When the model flies steadily under power and glides into flat landings, pop in a full charge and let it really get upstairs! The original model climbs in circles to the left.
Lastly, the lighter you can build the job the more numerous the number of seconds that will tick off before your model returns to Mother Earth, so sand all parts well before assembly, and go easy with the dope."
Mooncrest, Model Aircraft, December 1950.
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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