2 to Tango. Radio control sport twin model.
Quote: "Neat sport twin is simple to build and at 62in span, ideal for a pair of .25s to 40. Two to Tango, by Nigel Burton.
BEING a modeller of fairly small means, I was recently the glad recipient of an unwanted OS .35. Having always found twins more interesting than single-engined subjects, I bought a second OS from my local model shop and began my search for a practical model. I soon discovered that no suitable sport designs existed - only scale. As this was to be my first twin and having heard the stories - wait until you get an engine cut - and about how difficult twins are to fly, I needed something quick and easy to build and repair. There was no other solution than to design my own model.
Fuselage first: This is made from 1/8 in sides cut to shape, reinforced with 1/4 in balsa doublers between F1, F2 and the wing seat. 1/4 in square balsa stringers are then added to the top and bottom rear of the side assemblies with 1/4 square uprights between. Next, glue formers F2 and F3 to one fuselage side, checking that they are vertical and when set, add the second side. Pull in and glue the tail and nose. Fit F1 with the nose leg sewn and glued in place. Next, fit the 1/4 square cross pieces top and bottom then add the formers F2A, F2B, F4, F5 and F6. The front top decking is completed by planking with 1/8 balsa. The rear fuselage deck is constructed from 1/8 balsa sides with a 1/4 balsa top. Fit the lower 1/16 sheet cross-grain and add the front lower 1/4 sheet. Laminate the nose block from 1/2 in sheet.
Tail and fin: The tailplane is simply shaped from 1/4in. sheet with the elevator joined using 1/4in. hardwood dowel. The fin is then glued to the tail and this assembly fitted to the fuselage. Use scrap 1/2 in sheet to form fillets between the fin and tail, carved and sanded to blend with the countours of the fuselage.
Wings: On the original model, the wings were foam and veneer, with balsa leading and trailing edges fitted in the normal manner. Slots were then cut in from the leading edge where the nacelles are fitted. These were built-up in the same way as small fuselages, with 1/4in. sides, 1/16in. ply doublers and a 1/41n. ply engine bulkheads. On completion, the finished nacelles were coated with glue and located, sliding back and forth to ensure good adhesion. Holes were drilled through the foam core for the throttle servo wires and individual servos mounted in the nacelles beside the tanks. The wings were then joined and finished in the normal way, with ailerons controlled by torque rods. The nacelles were then sheeted on top, SLEC tanks installed and tank hatches fitted.
The built-up wing is of conventional construction. Start by pinning the bottom spar of one panel over the plan, packed up 1/4 in. Each rib is then glued onto this spar and the false trailing edge added. Note that the ribs from the root to beyond the nacelles are fitted in two halves, with a ply dihedral brace in between. The nacelle ribs can now he fitted, followed by the top main and 3/16in. rear spars and leading edge. The 1/2in. nose block is fitted next, together with the engine bulkhead and mount. Add the 1/4in. sheet former between the spars in the nacelle and the 1/16in. webbing each side of the spars.
Install the ply rib undercarriage mounting block and sheet the top of the wing before removing from the board. Turn over and fit the main undercarriage ply blocks and sheet the underside of the wing - except where the tank hatch is to be fitted.
Repeat this process with the other panel, building it onto the first, which should be propped up by 1-1/2 in. Fit the torque rods and trailing edges to the centre section of the wing and fit wing tips. Cut a hole between the root and next ribs, behind the main spar, for the centrally mounted aileron servo. Sand the entire wing and nacelles prior to covering..."
2 to Tango, RCM&E, August 1990.
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