Prestwick Pioneer II. CL scale model.
Quote: "This is not a run-of-the-mill model stand out from all others you'll see on the ukie scale circles. Prestwick Pioneer II, by Paul J Palanek.
There are many full-scale aircraft that are suitable for modelling subjects. This is one of them. We were pleased when Flying Models asked us to work up a control-line ship of this highly rated Prestwick Pioneer. The aircraft is exceptional for its clean lines and many details. One of the most interesting of these features is the radial cowl which adds much to the distinction of the model. Our 32 in model really steps out using a Torp 19. It has proven to be a stable and reliable flyer which makes it ideal for sport fans as well as contest modellers. The latter might find this an ex-cellent subject for scale beauty contests.
CONSTRUCTION: We suggest that you start with the fuselage since all other parts fasten to this member. This can be done by cutting out the fuselage sides and formers. You can then start actual construction by assembling the engine bearers which are made from 3/8 hardwood.
Cement formers A, B and C in place on the engine bearer assembly and then attach the two fuselage sides. Check all parts for alignment and trueness of position before the cement sets. Having done this part properly, the balance of the construction will prove simple. Join the fuselage sides together at the rear to complete this stage.
The bellcrank should now be in-stalled, while it is possible to have'free-dom of operation. We used a 3 in Veco crank. Hook up the crank and cut the line exit holes.
It is necessary to partially shape the fuselage sides before installing the 1/16 brass landing gear tube. Note that the landing gear wire will pass through this tube and that the whole assembly will pass through the top engine bearer. Since the nose of the Pioneer narrows considerably, a two-ounce Maeco fuel tank was installed between the engine bearers. This tank does not come forward enough to touch the balsa fill.
Note that formers C and D extend above the top of the cabin so that they will plug into the wing. This not only assures a sturdy mount but provides accurate alignment too. Sheet the lower portion of the fuselage and add the nose blocks. Having done this, you can now bend and install the remainder of the landing gear. Solder the wires together at the axle as shown on the plan.
Complete the fuselage by installing the pushrod, tail wheel, lead-outs and attaching the top deck and nose sec-tions. The fuselage can be carved to shape and sanded to the finished contour as soon as the cement has dried.
TAIL SURFACES: The tail surfaces are built in the usual manner with the exception of the hinges. Two dowels are used for hinges which pin the stabilizer to the elevator. It is necessary to drill all of the holes to make the hinge assembly..."
Update 15/06/2013: Replaced this plan with a clearer copy, thanks to theshadow.
Update 25/01/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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