E-Sport 8 oz10722

 

E-Sport 8 - plan thumbnail image

E-Sport 8 - completed model photo

Submitted to Outerzone: 06/12/2018
Outerzone planID: oz10722 | Filesize: 672KB | Format: • PDFbitmap | Credit*: Circlip, RFJ

   

About this Plan

E-Sport 8. Radio control sport pattern model, for electric power.

Quote: "Design, construction, a flexible power package, as well as the performance make this model a winner. E-Sport 8, by Rob Smith.

There are attributes I want in a remote-control (R/C) model airplane: go-where-you-point-it handling, compact size, and the clean, good looks of a modem pattern airplane. When looking for such an airplane a few months back, I could not find a model to fit my needs and wants, so I decided to design a model. The E-Sport 8 is my final design product. I'm very excited about this sporty model, and I hope you will find it a fun project, too!

Of course, even the best-looking model can be a real 'dog' if the power system doesn't deliver performance. I have had good experience with the Jeti Phasor line of brushless motors. These motors have proven to be reliable and good performers. The model was designed around this series of motors, but there are lots of other worthy motor combinations that would power the E-Sport 8. The E-Sport 8 was designed to handle 6- to 10-cell battery power of up to 3000-mAh capacity, providing the builder with lots of flexibility. Indeed, this wide battery latitude allowed me to try several different motor setups in the airframe. I will discuss each of those setups later. Let's get building!

What You Need: Anyone with intermediate modeling skills can easily build the E-Sport 8. Basic modeling tools, a drill, and a scroll saw are needed. There are not a lot of parts to fabricate.

Balsa selection is always important. Use 6- to 8-lb balsa, if possible. My goal was to have a design that would fly well and be reasonably light without having to be built out of contest balsa. If I felt that a part needed firmer or heavier balsa, then I used heavier wood. An example of this would be the cross-grain sheeting on the underside of the fuselage. Note that if you use balsa that is too light in this area and the airplane suffers a hard belly landing, the bottom will most likely break out. Any balsa block used in this model should be light and hallowed out when possible.

On the Building Board: It is always a good idea to start any project by studying the plans and instructions, Also, you should make copies of the parts templates from the plan.

Next, begin by cutting out the paper parts. Using a glue stick, apply some adhesive to the back of each part and then stick it to the wood, but don't let the glue dry completely. Trace the outline of the part onto the wood and then remove the paper template. Afterward, you can use your hobby knife to cut the parts from the wood. In no time, you should have a kit cut out.

Now, let's build the model's wings. Lay the wing plan out on a flat, pinnable surface. Cover the plans with waxed paper or some other protective see-through material. Straight and warp-free wings are key to a great flying model. Start by gluing the two W1 ribs together. Pin the Wls to the plan and be sure that they are straight. Next, pin the W7 to the building board. Slide the lower 1/4 by 1/8 in basswood spar in place; fit one end into the lower notch of WI and the other end into the lower notch of W7. When everything is square, glue the spar in place at both ends. Now, place ribs W2 through W6 in place and pin them to the work surface. Jig up the spar if necessary. When satisfied, glue the spar to each lower rib notch. Repeat this for the opposite wing panel. Now, fit and glue the upper spars. Be certain to keep everything straight and true.

Cut the 2 in wide trailing edge sheeting to length. Bevel the trailing edge of each sheet to 1/32 in. Mark the location of the trailing-edge sheeting on the ribs and then glue the balsa sheeting in place. Cut the 1/16 in balsa sub-leading-edge pieces to rough shape and then glue these pieces to the front of the ribs. Again, make sure that everything strays straight and true.

Lightly sand the leading edge of the ribs and the sub-leading-edge strip. Now dry-fit the 1/16 in leading edge balsa sheeting from the spars forward. Glue the sheeting in place, being careful not to distort the wing. Using 1/16 in balsa sheeting, fit and glue the center-section sheeting. Please note that this sheeting is one piece and is glued from W2 across the W1s and to the opposite W2. This technique provides strength to the center joint without the need for additional fiberglass. Sheet the area between ribs W4 and W5, Using 1/16 x 3/16 in balsa stock, install cap strips on the remaining ribs. Remove the wing from the building hoard when the glue has dried. Trim off the alignment jigs from all the ribs.

To keep the wing straight and true, cut new jigs from scrap balsa and block up the wing securely. Repeat the process to attach the sheet balsa and cap strips to this side of the wing. Remember to install the servo-wire leads before sheeting the center section. Add the 3/16 in balsa leading edge and sand the wing smooth and to shape. The 3/8 in balsa tips are added last.

Mark the locations of the ailerons, then cut the ailerons free from the wing. Be sure to bevel the face of each aileron to allow for adequate movement up and down. Face the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edges of the ailerons with 1/16 in balsa..."

E-Sport 8, Quiet Flyer, August 2003.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary files

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

Corrections?

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oz10722 datafile

E-Sport 8  
by Rob Smith
from Quiet Flyer
August 2003 
43in span
Tags: Electric R/C
all formers complete :)
got article :)

 

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User comments

There appears to be a sheet missing. Is there a wing plan sheet?
RB - 19/12/2018
Um no, not missing, the wing is on sheet 2 of the PDF. But yes, the thumbnail pic only showed one sheet. Have fixed that now :)
SteveWMD - 20/12/2018
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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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