Professor. Control line stunt mode, for Schneurle OS 40 FPS.
Quote: "Graduate! Jump to the class above profiles with a capable fullbodied stunter for Schneurle .40s. Professor, by Mike Spedaliere.
It's graduation time - from Tudor to Professor. I'd like to start by saying that the Professor, as you see it presented here, is actually a modification of a modification. The original concept was a 'stretched out' version of the Top Flite Tudor (Model Aviation July, 1988) by Jim Armour. That was a profile design which featured lengthened wing and tail surfaces, along with a stretched tail moment arm. I built this design and had good success flying it in the Intermediate class of C/L Stunt competition. In fact I used this model to place eighth in the Advanced class at the 1988 National Championships. It is a very stable design with a good corner, plus a thin wing section that helps it, I suspect, cut through turbulence and wind. All in all it's an honest and fun to fly plane.
When I started thinking about an original design for the 1989 contest season, I decided to base it on Jim's numbers. I substituted a built-up fuselage in place of the original's profile type, but kept the aesthetic flavor. Keep in mind that this design was not intended to be a full-blown 'Pro-Stunt' contender, but rather a model with which an Intermediate flyer could progress up the next rung of the Stunt ladder.
Construction: The wing is the heart of any good Stunt design, and this model is no exception. It must be built light and straight, and still be plenty strong to stand up to high loads during tight cornering and heavy wind flying. Although the construction is the standard 'C' tube design, and could possibly be built on a flat surface, I strongly suggest the use of one of the many jig designs in use today. I prefer the Adjusto-Jig. Another possibility is to purchase plans from Radio Control Modeler for their wing jig.
The first step in building the wing is to produce a 'kit' of parts. You will need to drill holes on the center line of each rib to accommodate the rods of the jig you choose to use for assembly. When cutting the trailing edge, it is a good idea to stress relieve the wood by first cutting the piece 1/8 of an inch wider than required, and then final trimming with a second cut to exact size. This insures the trueness of the part, and will help to resist warping. While you're in a cutting mood, why not continue to cut out a complete 'kit' of parts for the entire airplane? I do, and it sure saves time later when I'm in a building mode.
Start by setting up the rib spacing in the jig. For jigs that don't have 'stations' built in, try cutting pieces of index cards to place between the ribs and insure proper spacing. Be very sure these pieces are cut accurately. Next, glue on the trailing edge, the upper and lower 3/16 spruce spars, and the 3/8 inch square leading edge pieces. Install the 1/16 plywood half ribs and the maple landing gear blocks as per plans.
Install the control system, checking for freeness of travel. Since this airplane was built, there have been many innovations in control system components. I recommend the new Strong-Arm Control System Hardware by Control Specialties Corporation (PO Box 68, Stockertown, PA 18083; phone 215-746-0106).
Block sand the basic structure to insure that the planking will lay across the ribs evenly. At this point, double check alignment..."
Professor by Mike Spedaliere from April '92 Flying Models. 53 in span, for OS FP40.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Update 15/12/2018: Added article, thanks to RFJ.
Did we get something wrong with this plan? That happens sometimes. Help us make a correction
Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email email@example.com
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
© Outerzone, 2011-2019.
All content is free to download for personal use.
For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.