About this Plan
Gymnast. RC indoor fun fly model, for .61 diesel power.
Quote: "Indoor / Outdoor flyer. Gynmast, by Richard Harris.
The purpose behind the design of this aerobatic aeroplane was that with my limited flying skills I would be able to fly it indoor at the International Model Engineers Show 1997. I've tried to fly many types of indoor RC models at the IMS before, all of which only manage to stay in one piece for 3 days and end up in the ground or bin! So with all the experience gained, I set about designing my own indoor plane, based around my favourite diesel, the MP Jet 0.61 R/C.
The construction had to suit my limited building skills and be quick and easy to build without any special technical skills or expensive materials. One other thing learned was that it must be able to be repaired quickly - immediately or over night, so that I would still be able it fly in my allotted slot the next day. Hence the bolt-on wing. As it turned out I did not have to use any spare parts at the IMS as the plane flew so slowly and smoothly, it was idiot-proof. Even with me flying it!
So, on to the construction. Start with the fuselage (the easy bit). Using 1/4 in hard balsa sheet that is not warped and the top edge square and straight. This is the datum line for the whole construction. Cut the fuselage to a full rectangle (do not taper the rear end yet), place the 1/4 in ply on top at the front end and tape on with Sellotape, mark and cut the scarf joint through both pieces of wood. Remove tape and using Zap flexi-cyno, glue scarf joint together.
Using a biro, mark out engine slot and servo holes to match your choice of equipment and cut out the unwanted area. Lay the fuselage on top of the 1 mm ply and mark around with a biro. use slow cyno to fill in the fuselage outline on the 1 mm ply - align and place the fuselage on top and weigh down until the cyano sets. Cut around the fuselage, cutting out the servos and engine slots, turn over fuselage and do the same again. Now you can cut the taper to the rear end. Keep the off-cut. You will need it for the wing strut fuselage spacing. There you are - one completed fuselage, was that easy, or what?
The Wing. The section is Ritz 3-30-10 using 3% camber and is best for slope floaters and scale models, I think we now have to include slow indoor areobatic fun fly! You're going to love this easy build: Trace the wing rib onto 1/8 in ply. Cut and shape them carefully including the spares and the tab at TE, as this will pay dividends later. Using this pattern cut out 5 ribs from 1/8 balsa and 4 ribs from 3/32 balsa. Cut a few 1/4 chord LE & TE ribs of varying thickness - I'll tell you what to do with them later..."
Gymnast, Radio Modeller, April 1998.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Supplementary file notes
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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