Phoebe. Radio control sport sailplane. Uses a rolled plywood fuselage.
Quote: "Simplicity, design and good looks combine to make the Phoebe an outstanding performer for thermal and slope soaring. Based on the Bolkow Phoebus, slightly modified. By David Thornburg.
Every now and then a design comes along that you just have to build, even if you have a full stable at the time. To me, the Phoebe was such a design. Basically a Bolkow Phoebus with slightly simplified lines, the little ship somehow captures all that's clean and neat and classic in modern sailplane designs. MonoKoted wings and a Hobbypoxy fuselage make the plane a real penetrator, and good penetration is an asset both on a windy slope and out on the flats when the time comes to abandon that fat thermal and head back upwind to the field.
The Phoebe's smooth lines derive from her rolled plywood fuselage, which, with a sheet bottom, is easier to build than most. First cut out all formers, the rough nose block, both halves of the rudder core and the 3/16 in sheet keel. The nose block can be tailored to your particular battery pack, as suggested by the dotted lines on the plans. Glue the nose block, the triangular strips, the formers and the rudder core pieces to the keel in that order. Install both nylon push rods. If you want to build a snug little box behind Former A for your receiver, now is the time to do so. Cut the fuselage shell from one of Sig's 1/32 x 12 x 48 inch sheets of birch plywood, wet it along the turtledeck, and glue it in place with Titebond or other slow-setting adhesive. Sight across the wing platform and cockpit 'gunwales' to insure good alignment. When dry, add the 1/2 in belly pod, the 1/32 balsa rudder skins (a good idea to literally inundate the elevator Nyrod in glue as you install these skins) and the skid block at the fuselage rear.
Now for the cockpit - the item that separates the craftsmen from the flyers. A neat canopy frame can be custom-built on your fuselage from scrap balsa, ply or basswood. This takes time but it looks nice. Or you can wrap the cut-down Sig canopy around the hole, slip a rubber band over it to hold it in place and call it finished. I've done both.
While you're making the big canopy decision, build the wing. Select eight pieces of 1/16 x 36 in balsa, four of them 3 in wide and the others, 4 in wide. Glue them together in pairs..."
Phoebe, MAN, October 1974.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
Did we get something wrong with this plan? That happens sometimes. Help us make a correction
Do you have a photo you'd like to submit for this page? Then email firstname.lastname@example.org
* Credit field
The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.
This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
© Outerzone, 2011-2018.
All content is free to download for personal use.
For non-personal use and/or publication: plans, photos, excerpts, links etc may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Outerzone with appropriate and specific direction to the original content i.e. a direct hyperlink back to the Outerzone source page.
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site's owner is strictly prohibited. If we discover that content is being stolen, we will consider filing a formal DMCA notice.