Tigerkitten. Control line stunt trainer model for 1/2A engines. Wingspan 26-1/2 in, wing area 168 sq in.
Quote: "Graduate to controline aerobatic basics with this .049 advanced trainer. Simple and rugged. Tigerkitten, by Robert A Benjamin.
The Tigerkitten is an .049 powered advanced C/L trainer capable of all the basic aerobatic maneuvers. It is a logical next step beyond slab wing basic trainers with which a new flyer, capable of flying out a tank of fuel and landing intact, can learn the techniques of loops, real wipgovers, and sustained inverted flight. The airplane is designed around the Cox 049 engines from the RTF (Ready To Fly) plastic airplanes. These engines are equipped with a dual-bypass Black Widow cylinder and a Cox high compression glowhead and run on 25% nitro fuel with a good 6X3 prop. The plans show an alternate nose for use with a Tee Dee, and a Babe Bee or similar integral tank engine can be used by shortening the nose to preserve the original nose moment. Integral tank engines will not perform as well in aerobatics as engines using the tank arrangement shown on the plans. Some of the RTF engines include a backplate/assembly without mounting lugs; these engines can be con-verted using an adapter mount supplied by Goldberg Models (Part No. GD-EB-260 En-gine Bracket).
This airplane would make a good, first plans-built project. If you will read the entire article, study the plans and materials list, and follow the sequence of construction as presented, you will find the Tigerkitten to be scracely more difficult than a kit to build, and a great deal more rewarding. Craftsmanship is not dead unless we let it die; go to it and have fun!
Construction. Wing. Make a set of wing rib templates by tracing through the plans onto heavy card stock, using carbon paper. Use a sharp pencil or fine ballpoint and keep it accurate. Cut out the patterns and check against the plans; do it over if they aren't right. Trace the required number of each pattern onto a sheet of 1/16 inch medium weight balsa. Don't use a pen; the ink remaining on the ribs can bleed through your dope finish. A pointed blade such as No. 11 X-Acto works best to cut out the rib notches; cut these before you cut the rib outline to minimize splitting. Cut the rib outlines a little wide of the line, to allow for sanding the ribs to final shape.
Stack each set of ribs, align with a short piece of 1/4 inch spar stock in the spar notches, and block sand to smooth out all the bumps and match the stack to the template. A piece of spar stock in the leadout opening of the W-3's will make handling easier..."
Tigerkitten, Flying Models, March 1985.
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Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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