Yorkee. Radio control sport model for electric power with Speed 400 motor.
Quote: "Eric Leadley designs a sport model for Speed 400 motors and slope soaring.
This model came about as a result of two circumstances. Our son, lain, wanted a small model to fly on the rough field adjacent to where he works. I am also too mean to throw a pair of wings away. In January this year I put together a pair of prototype wings for a Casutt that I wanted to build and I banded them to my small trainer, working on the theory that if they flew on that they would work on the Casutt. Technical eh?
The format worked so I so I put them to one side and built a proper Casutt. Later when the lad said he wanted to chuck it about I pulled the wings from behind the pile, put pencil to paper and the Yorkee was born. Why Yorke& well I didn't know what to call it but as we live almost in site of the Rowntree chocolate factory I thought it seemed appropriate.
The hard wood leading edge helps the wing in the stubble and the V-tail doesn't knock off so easily. The model has flown on a Speed 400 7.2 volt motor with 7 cells and 6 x 4 to 6 x 6 prop, a Beeline 380 motor on 6 cells with a 5 x 5 cam prop and an AP 29 on 6 cells with the cam prop. I have also flown it on a Speed 400 6 volt motor with 6 of my Panasonic cells and it seems to fly forever.
Oh, and I nearly forgot, it makes an excellent little sloaper and you don't have to spend a fortune on miniature gear, you can get most standard radio gear in it.
If you are not keen on the V-tail just keep the tailplane flat and put a little fin on top. I'm sure you will find this model to be an excellent fun flyer. Choose light but firm wood and don't add any weight by trying to beef it up, it is surprisingly strong when it is completed. To speed up construction you may find it easier to cut out most of the parts first; the wing ribs are easy, just cut one out and use this as a former to cut the rest out.
The tailplane. This is the easiest part to build so I find it better to get it over with. Cut out the tailplane in one piece with the elevators and add the anti warp strips. Sand the tailplane smooth and round off the edges, then cut out the lightening holes and the elevators.
Mark out the castle shaped joining line and cut using a thin modelling knife. You will find that it is now easy to set it to the correct angle and cyano it together. The root of each recess will have to be sanded to an angle for the two pieces to fit close together.
The wing. There is no dihedral or washout and with a span of less than 36 in the sheets and strips can be cut in one piece out of standard length material. Cover the plan with thin plastic sheet. Cut the bottom LE sheet to size, note that it fits under the false LE. Pin it down over the plan. Cut spruce spar to length, run a smear of glue along the edge and fit to rear of sheeting, use thin pins to avoid splitting the spar..."
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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