Rookie. Control line profile stunt trainer, for .35 power.
Quote: "This stunt trainer combines properties of both built-up and profile type construction. Rookie, by Don Winfree.
I clearly remember, as a boy, watching my father put his Veco Squaw (oz270) through the paces at the local park. Listening to the crowd's oo's and ah's, I dreamt that someday that is going to be me. I remember my first Ringmaster, my first wing-over, my first loop, my father's advice, and my first attempt at inverted flight. I must have broken the outboard wing and rudder off 15 times before mastering them. Oh how proud I was when I could fly out an entire tank of fuel inverted.
Then my father bought me my first Nobler (oz6212) which I flew almost everyday. I practiced handle movements in the shower, at school, and in my dreams. Over and over I would run through each maneuver of the pattern at the field only to finally lose my pride and joy in the sun while practicing the vertical eights.
I remember my father again taking me to the local hobbyshop and together we bought a Skylark (oz6298) stuntship. I built her with a 'T' tail and the wheels, with pants, in the wings. I truly loved that airplane and finally was able to place, with her, at the King Orange Meet in Miami, Florida. I had somewhat mastered the aerobatic pattern. Thank goodness for loving fathers.
That was 12 years ago and although I've builtChipmunks, Noblers, a Peacemaker (oz1633), and at least five scratchbuilt stuntships since, I was way out of practice. Wanting to get back into competition brought me to the realization that I needed something to practice with. I started looking at kits. I hadn't built a kit model in years. Those that I did build were usually heavy due to poor wood selec-tion. I decided nothing fit the bill, so out came the drawing board and pencil again.
I wanted a profile plane with a vertically mounted engine. Years ago, I found it was always a battle trying to get a consistent run with a horizontally mounted engine. I wanted the airplane to be centered around a .35 size engine. Having four Foxes, one Mc-Coy and two O.S. Max .35's, I felt I would be safe for a few practice flights. Also, I wanted the plane a little smaller. Having my arm pulled from the socket and being lifted out of my shoes while doing overheads was never a joy for me. If the weight is kept down, the .35 size planes can easily fly with the 'monster' engine group. I like a wing loading of ten ounces per square foot. With a span of 49 inches and a wing area of 455 square inches the plane would ideally weigh 45 ounces.
My preferred designs also incorporate built-up flaps, stab, elevators, and rudder. They seem easier to build and, of course, help with that ever critical weight factor. The stabilizer and elevators have symmetrical airfoils to increase lift. Airfoil stabs theoretically create more lift than conventional flat sheet stabs thus producing a more respon-sive ship. In addition, I always build 'lifting rudders.' Lifting rudders are built with the airfoil curvature on the inside of the circle, creating lift, and thus pulling the tail in and nose out, with less drag than conventional offset rudders. This combined with 2° engine offset gives me all the overhead tension I need.
Well, the 'Rookie' finally began to take shape. I named her the Rookie because I felt mostly Rookies or novices would be flying her even though she will fly with the best of them.
Construction. Construction is simple, but I must emphasize the need to build everything exactly straight. To fly competitively the wing, flaps, and stab must be true and parallel. Do not try and build this airplane using your eyeballs for alignment.
Wing. Let's build the wing first. My plane has a foam wing, but I will go through the details of a built-up wing to help you along. If you do not have a wing jig, then go buy four fiberglass or aluminum arrow shafts. Epoxy two pairs of these together with a short dowel insert, or, if they have a thread inside, screw them together on a short piece of rod. Arrow shafts are basically straight so this seems to be the best solution. Build four little stands about three inches high to hold these shafts parallel to your building surface. Make sure they are all the exact same height. Presto! instant wing jig. Make plywood or aluminum templates for the root and tip ribs shown in the fuselage side view. Place the center rib on top of the tip rib and line up at the trailing edges..."
Rookie, Flying Models, March 1983.
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Article pages, thanks to RFJ.
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