Woodstock. Sport biplane for miniature RC and .020 motors.
Woodstock: A Mini Biplane from Bill Hockey - a 1989 reworking of a 60's original. Intended for Cox 010 or 020 (there seems to be some confusion as to which).
Quote: "Here's one for the Small Model Association! Woodstiock by Bill Hockey.
This little biplane was designed in 1969 for Cox 010 and Ace single channel rudder-only proportional equipment. As originally finished it weighed 5-1/2 oz and was not a successful performer. It then hung in my model room until the summer of 1987 when I decided that perhaps it could be modified to fly with two-channel lightweight radio.
Building the wings. Cut the ribs out to size and build the four panels flat on the building board together. Use lightish wood for the ribs and fairly hard leading and trailing edge stock and extremely hard for the two spars. (There are no plywood braces in the wings so make sure all the glued joints around the centre section are sound). Join the upper and lower sets of panels together and make sure that you have 3/4in dihedral under each tip. Fill in the front centre section panels with 1/32in sheet top and bottom.
Tailplane - elevators, rudder and fin. Cut out from medium hard 3/32in sheet. Do not omit the anti-warp strips in the tailplane or the upright on the fin.
Fuselage, Cut two 1/16 th sheet sides and make up a left and a right with 1/8in strip and sheet around the wing seats and engine bay area. Join together and sheet top and bottom with 1/32 nd sheet. Face the inside of the fuselage around the undercarriage area and the underside where the u/c seats with 1/32 in ply. Finishing Sand the whole down with flour paper and cover with jap tissue. Give one coat of 50/50 dope/thinners and two coats of Tuffcote fuel proofer.
R/C installation Mount two micro servos and 1/8 ply rails to the fuselage and connect - rudder has closed-loop as detailed and the elevator via a full length of 18q piano wire suitably supported down the fuselage length with snake inner. Use snake inners as guides for the rudder loops. Hinge the elevator and rudder to the tailplane and fin with thin mylar. Use a mini-horn for the elevator and a 1/16 in ply horn for the rudder and make sure you have no more than 3/16 in movement each way for the elevator - the measurements to be made at the extreme width of the control surfaces.
Flying. Check that all flying surfaces are true and that you have no warps. Make sure that the wings and tailplane sit square on the fuselage and ensure that you have 4° downthrust and 2° right-thrust when mounting the Cox TD .010. Wait for a calm evening and do not try to test glide the model. Start the motor and run out half the tank and then with the engine, at a rich setting, smartly throw the thing straight and level into whatever wind there is. If a long powered descent in a straight line occurs you have got it right. Fill the tank and, at full power (use a Cox 4-1/2 x 2-1/2 Thimbledrome prop), launch again.
The model flies extremely quickly and you will have to be prepared to be light on the sticks. Flick rolls and full power spins are alli possible. Remember that using the built-in tank on the Cox you will only have a limited engine run so gain height towards the end of the run. DO NOT try to glide slowly (it will fall out of the sky) and it won't fly at all if it weighs more than 8ozs! Best of luck."
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