PEG 54 Twin Pusher. Rubber sport model.
Quote: "The P.E.G.-54 1924 Twin Pusher Old Timer Drawn by Art Reiners, 1985."
Quote: "Chapter X. The Scientific Model AIrplane, P.E.G.-54.
The model illustrated by Figure 82, about to be described, was made by the author in 1924, but is still in existence at the time this is written, a fact which argues well for its strong construction and good flying qualities. It was entered in the National Air Races at Philadelphia in 1926, and has often been used in exhibitions because it is always ready to make a good flight. When released it climbs rapidly to a high altitude then settles down to a long horizontal flight, terminating finally in a long glide. Its best record to date is slightly over a minute and a half.
In making this type you will gain useful experience in working bamboo, and when completed you will have a model that will be a source of much pleasure.
First make the small metal fittings by reference to Chapter VI on Fittings. Draw the plan of the fuselage or frame upon a large piece of paper, putting in the braces, and use this drawing to lay the parts on as they are cut and fitted. This method insures correct placement and accurate alignment, as well as ease of construction.
The longerons are first sand-papered smooth, then painted with dope to strengthen them, and when this has dried: an end of each is cut to a chisel-like bevel of such inclination that when the two cut faces are pinched together the other ends will spread apart 8 inches. Ambroid is applied to each face, then they are pinched together, the nose-hook is fitted over the apex and the nose is bound with the silk thread. The various pieces of bamboo for the braces are sandpapered smooth and rounded slightly; they are put into position by cutting the ends to a chisel-like point and inserting them in slits made in the sides of the longerons at the proper places, where they are Ambroided securely. Before they have set, pick up the fuselage and sight along its sides - if they are not straight, adjust the braces to make them so.
When the Ambroid has dried, trim off any projections that may appear on the outside of the longerons. Bind on the propeller bearings at the rear of the model. It will be observed that these are of the bent type, differing from the straight type used on previous models, so when these are bound on, take several extra turns of thread at the bottom of the fitting to keep the pull of the rubbers from moving them down the frame. Bind on the cans in the places they are to occupy according to the drawing, making all of the openings in the cans face upward. The frame is now completed.
The wing ribs may be made either by slicing them from a block which has a profile like the drawing of the wing sec-tion, or by making a tin pattern like the drawing and laying it on thin slats of balsa, cutting the shape out with a sharp knife. No matter which method is used, the ribs should be uniform and all of the slots in them should be in line. The slots can be cut best by drawing a hack-saw blade across the ribs, in the proper place. Leaving a space of 1/4 inches on each end of the spar, the ribs are placed thereon and Ambroided in position, 2 inches apart. Be sure they line up true when you place this ladder-like frame on a flat surface..."
Scan from DBHL, cleanup by theshadow.
Direct submission to Outerzone.
Chapter X from "Building & Flying Model Aircraft", thanks to Pit.
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