Rivets

 

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Rivets  
by Al Greenwood
from Radio Modeller
October 1968 
48in span
Tags: Scale IC R/C LowWing Racer Civil
all formers complete :)
got article :)


Submitted to Outerzone: 20/07/2018
Outerzone planID: oz10300 | Filesize: 1129KB | Format: • PDFbitmap | Credit*: Circlip, RFJ

   

About this Plan

Rivets. Radio control scale Goodyear racer model, for .40 power.

Quote: "Goodyear class pylon racer. This attractive, fast and exciting model is the latest addition to the RM plans range! Rivets, by Al Greenwood.

THE full size Rivets began life in the late 1940s as a Continental-powered racing aeroplane, with prone-pilot layout. Built by owner-pilot Bill Falck, it somewhat resembled the aeroplane as presented here, except that it had a lower fuselage profile, sporting a long greenhouse of a cockpit canopy extending very nearly to the nose, and a taller, pointed, fin and rudder. The rules laid down by the Goodyear Company, who sponsored this event, however, outlawed this pilot position.

Modifications to allow the machine to comply with the rules produced the aircraft we know today, which had its first success in 1950 with a 6th place at Pennsylvania at a speed of 167 mph, and then a 2nd place at Detroit in 1952 with 194 mph. All the Goodyear racers were now going much faster, with much cleaner airframes and wheel spats becoming almost mandatory, and success followed success, with no less than five firsts, three seconds and two third places between 1952 and 1960.

There was then a lapse in Goodyear racing until about 1965, since when Rivets has again proved almost unbeatable. This class is now known as the Continental Racer, due to Goodyear's ceasing to sponsor it, and has now a tremendous following in the USA, where speeds well in excess of 200 mph are commonplace. The T-tail version (as shown dotted on the plan) is the latest development, the modifications having been made during non-racing years in the early 1960s. The engines are flat four cylinder aircooled types of approximately 190 cu in or about 3,200 cc.

Building the model. The Wing. This is built upside-down on the plan. First join the 1/16 x 4 in soft sheet balsa, as suggested on the plan, to cover the entire wing. Make two identical panels for top and bottom. As the trailing-edge curvature is only slight, it may be left straight at this stage, to be trimmed to the correct outline later. The rear sheet and middle triangular-shaped piece go straight through from end to end, with the grain parallel to the trailing edge, and the front sheets join at the centre line, with the grain parallel to the leading edge.

Use a very flat board for joining the wing panels, and have it covered with greaseproof paper or polythene sheet to prevent the assembly sticking to it. When joining sheets, they should be pulled together with masking tape and weighted down while the glue is drying. The underside is the finished surface and should be the smoothest side of the sheets. (Incidentally, if MonoKote or Solar-film is to be used as a final covering, do not use white resin glue, as the heat from the iron softens it slightly making the joints show up, although otherwise I recommend it throughout.) Sand the panels smooth, so that sanding is kept to a minimum on the finished wing.

Next build the basic framework, omitting the aileron spars. Mark centre lines on all ribs and the leading edges, as it helps in lining up, later. When the framework is dry, block up the leading and trailing edges (still inverted) so that the centre lines of the ribs are parallel with the building board, and the top of the main-spar is flat on the plan. Cut u/c stock and check for fit..."

Rivets, Radio Modeller, October 1968.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary files

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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Notes

* Credit field

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Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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