Miss Laura (oz10289)


Miss Laura (oz10289) by Alan Seacat from Flying Models  1980 - plan thumbnail

About this Plan

Miss Laura. Control line stunt model for OSD Max 40 FSR.

Quote: "This semi-scale Goodyear C/L stunter should come in at 48 ounces and will really perform on a .46 engine. Miss Laura, by Alan Seacat.

In the Fall of 1977 while looking through Bob Hunt's sketches, I came across one of a Goodyear racer called the 'Little Bit.' Immediately I recognized its potential as a Controlline stunter. We started to work on the construction drawings right away. It was decided to make it a 40 size airplane because of the large variety of motors available in the .40 - .46 size. When the drawings were finished it had very little resemblance to the full size Little Bit. Instead I decided to name the plane after my wife who has been very supportive of my hobby, 'Miss Laura'.

Wing construction: I used a CSC foam wing because of the light weight and accuracy plus the fact that they are a lot easier and quicker to assemble than a built-up wing. If you wish to use a foam wing, please follow instructions supplied with it. After you have the wing panels joined and the center joint wrapped with fiberglass cloth, mark the trailing edge of the wing and the leading edge of the flap and cut slots for hinges. Install the control horn in the flaps, now round the leading edge of the flaps.

Next you install hinges and flaps. Be sure not to omit the extra hinge at the tip of the flap as this is a very highly stressed area. Pin the root and tip hinges by drilling a hole the size of a toothpick through the wing trailing edge and hinge. Push a round toothpick into the hole and clip off the excess, then sand it smooth to the wing. Use the same method to pin the flap, root and tip hinges. If you haven't already done so, tack glue the wing tip blocks on and sand to shape. Then break off and hollow out. Install a CSC adjustable leadout guide in the left tip. Now glue them back on permanently. I also used a foam core stabilizer and elevator. Very light 3/8-inch balsa can be substituted for this if you wish.

Fuselage construction: Start by cutting the fuselage sides to shape. Pin sides together and sand the edges so that they are exactly the same. Cut the doublers from 1/32 plywood and glue to the fuselage sides. Weight down until dry so that they stay flat. Drill 1/4-inch holes horizontally in motor mounts between F-1 and F-2 and tape the motor mounts as per plans. All of this is done to save weight. Glue the motor mounts to the fuselage sides. Motor mounts should be 1/8 below the top of the fuselage sides. Install F-1 and F-2, making sure everything is in alignment.

Place the fuselage upside down over the top view on the plans. Pull in both fuselage sides to match the plans. Tack glue the rest of the formers in using Hot Stuff. Now, take the fuselage off the plans and check to see that it is straight. Run a bead of glue along the former-to-fuselage side joint. Rough cut the top, bottom and cowling blocks to shape and tack-glue these to the fuselage crutch. Carve and sand the fuselage to shape. Now break off the blocks and hollow.

Wing installation: Start by drawing two lines perpendicular to each other on top of the work bench. Cut out the bottom of the crutch for the wing installation. Center the fuselage over one line and then lay the wing in so that the trailing edge is parallel to the other line. Sight down through the flap hinge line to see that the trailing edge is aligned. When this is all lined up, weight down fuselage. With a pencil, inscribe a light line on the center of the leading edge of the wing at fuselage and at the tips (these are just reference marks so make them light enough to be sanded off).

Now measure from the table to the leading edge reference line at the fuselage. This distance should be the same as that from table to center of trailing edge at the fuselage. Do what you have to, to get this distance the same at all four corners of the wing to the fuselage. Now block up the wing tips so that these center lines are the same distance from the table. Select a few places where the wing and fuselage meet and tack glue with Hot Stuff. Force a fillet of micro-balloons on the inside of the fuselage-to-wing joint and Hot Stuff it. Do this on both top and bottom after you have replaced the pieces of fuselage you cut out to install the wing. Now lay fiberglass cloth across the inside..."

Update 08/03/2019: Added article, thanks to RFJ.

Supplementary file notes



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Miss Laura (oz10289) by Alan Seacat from Flying Models  1980 - model pic


Miss Laura (oz10289) by Alan Seacat from Flying Models  1980 - pic 003.jpg
Miss Laura (oz10289) by Alan Seacat from Flying Models  1980 - pic 004.jpg
Miss Laura (oz10289) by Alan Seacat from Flying Models  1980 - pic 005.jpg

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User comments

when printed its 52" wingspan as per the details, the original model was 56" span.
anon - 07/03/2019
for Anon: remember CL models have one wing shorter than the other. So probably is represented only the longer one (as usual) and you've doubled the longer one obtaining a longer total wingspan.
Pit - 08/03/2019
A shorter wing half is not shown on the plans so naturally you double what is shown.
rchopper56 - 09/03/2019
I may not have explained the issue with the plan very well, the issue is the wingspan of the original model was 56", the PDF version presented here is 52", could something have gone wrong with the conversion to PDF.
Paul A - 09/03/2019
OS 40 fp and OS 40 fsr had the same cyl. head parts number. My OS 40 fp has 36mm dia. head, check on plan measures.
Pit - 10/03/2019
Head on plan 34mm, 2"' wheels measure 1-3/4". Plan is not full size.
Paul A - 11/03/2019
I think you're right, I think this one needs scaling up to 56 in wingspan.
SteveWMD - 11/03/2019
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