Omega. Radio control sport twin model. Wingspan 51 in, wing area 417 sq in, for (2x) .15 to .19 engines.
This is a 400 dpi scan, from a full size plan.
Quote: "If you want to fly a twin-engine aircraft, you are going to need an advanced trainer to learn those multi-engine skills. The Omega is the end result of years of designing, building, and re-building. You'll find it easy to fly twins - once you know how. Omega, by George Caldwell.
If you want to fly a twin, or have your eyes on a scale 310 Cessna, P-38 Lightning, Shrike Commander or the like, you are going to need an advanced multi-trainer to learn those multi-engine skills so necessary with the bigger, heavier ships. If so, this is your next project! If you have already started (or finished) your dream multi-scale ship, push it aside for awhile. The cost and effort. put into one of these is worth more than one or two short flights. Believe me, I know! The Omega is the end result of years of designing, building, and re-building twins. It is easy to fly twins, once you know how.
The main problem of the single-gone-multi pilot is thinking airspeed. When your single quits, what do you do? Hopefully you drop the nose and keep up the airspeed, steepen the approach angle and land. With a twin, you have almost the same situation (without the landing), airspeed is critical. The Omega is sleek enough to allow for a low critical airspeed. Even with one engine operating you can stay above this speed in a shallow climb. In fact, the Omega will easily take-off from a paved runway and climb to altitude on one engine. Stop and think about that - take-off on only one engine. Although it is not recommended for your first flight, the average pilot can safely do this after about 30 flights. More aboet that in the flying section. The Omega is capable of flying any pattern routine and, in general. has been loved by all those who have flown it. Go ahead - get started!
The construction of the Omega is simple and very strong. Use medium balsa for all balsa call outs to minimize the weight. Good wood is a must. As for glue, I recommend Wilhold Aliphatic Resin, available at most good hobby shops. It is super strong, but doesn't become brittle like cements. Most experienced builders at this stage of the game have developed their own construction style, so I'll be brief.
Fuselage. Affix the plywood doublers to the inside of both skies. Add 3/16 square balsa to the tail and F6 through F1O. Glue the deck spar in place prior to t he glue drying on the deck bulkheads. When dry, add, or, should I say, glue in F4 and F1. Rough carve the nose block before attachment. Add the nose gear mount and 1/2 in block to the bottom. If you are making the wing removable, which I do not recommend, start thinking about it at this point. Add the top deck sheeting, starting from the fuselage middle and working toward the top. I used two pieces, right and left.
Add the cross grain bottom sheeting. Glue F2 and forward, F3 and forward, and the 1/2 in balsa 'hatch continuation' block. Make the hatch by gluing the 1/8 deck floor to F5 and then to the 1/2 in balsa block fitted with the rear F3. Glue the 1/8 dowel to F5 and cut a hole in F6 to accommodate it..."
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This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.
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