Juiblex oz10228


Juiblex - plan thumbnail image

Juiblex - completed model photo

Submitted to Outerzone: 27/06/2018
Outerzone planID: oz10228 | Filesize: 233KB | Format: • PDFbitmap | Credit*: Circlip, RFJ


About this Plan

Juiblex. Free flight power model for P-30 and sport flying.

Quote: "A fine flying design for the increasingly popular P-30 event. It's easy to build, too. Juiblex by Mike Lidberg.

The design for Juiblex came about when my son Mike (now 16) needed a new P-30 for an upcoming contest. With only a day or two available for construction, the model had to be simple to build. This ruled out elliptical tips, rolled tube body, etc, and resulted in a very simple model which was drawn up on the back of a plan for our first P-30 design, the Little Devil. The body became a basic box structure and the Little Devil provided the wing and stab out-line. The resulting model is quick to build and has been flown in 2 P-30 contests, and once as an unlimited model, placing 1st twice in P-30 JR and 3rd in unlimited. In unlimited, Juiblex was flown with more rubber than its usual 10 grams, but it was flying in JR/SR/OP against a variety of 'real' unlimited models.

Construction is fairly easy, but complicated a bit by the dethermalizer (DT). Because Juiblex is intended to be a competition model, its weight should be held near the 40 gram minimum for the event. At that weight, with even average rubber, the DT becomes essential. Before we start building, take a look in your scrap box. If you have some 3/32 or 1/8 sheet, there's no need to laminate the wing mount pieces. Thicker sheet scraps will simplify the nose block, too, although it should still be laminated for maximum strength. Don't pin through any of the sticks used for Juiblex - use pins as clamps, putting them alongside the sticks. Pinning through the trailing edge (TE) pieces of the wing and stab is all right, though, and usually necessary to hold them down.

Body. Cover the plan with waxed paper or saran wrap. Carefully lay out a building jig for the sides by spacing pins every 1/2 to 1 in around the outside of the body outline. Put 2 pins about 1/2 in" apart on the left side of each upright. Build a body side by using additional pins to clamp the upper and lower sticks to the plan, up against the jig pins. Only a few pins are required to hold the sticks se-curely.

Now add the uprights, using one pin to clamp each one in place. If you build with Hot Stuff, the whole side can be glued after all parts are in place. After the glue has set, remove only the clamp pins, leaving the jig pins in place. Then, use a steel straight edge or table knife to unstick the side from the waxed paper. Build the second side in the same manner.

Pin the 2 sides down over the top view and join with cross pieces (these are all the same length back to the rubber peg). Use a triangle or carpenter's square to keep the sides straight and square.

Make up the noseblock, laminating pieces of sheet balsa for strength. The smaller portion of the block must be a snug fit into the front of the body. Drill the 'V hole for the large Peck nylon thrust bushing..."

Juiblex, Flying Models, October 1981.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary files

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.


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oz10228 datafile

by Mike Lidberg
from Flying Models
October 1981 
30in span
Tags: Rubber F/F
all formers complete :)
got article :)



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* Credit field

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