Seamaster

 

Seamaster - plan thumbnail image

Seamaster - completed model photo more pics (1)

Seamaster  
by Ken Willard
from Ace
1988 
60in span
Tags: IC R/C Floatplane
formers unchecked


Submitted to Outerzone: 23/06/2018
Outerzone planID: oz10212 | Filesize: 604KB | Format: • PDFbitmap | Credit*: MileHighHerbaFly, Circlip

   

About this Plan

Ace Seamaster 40. Radio control sport seaplane model. Wingspan 59-1/2 in, wing area 725 sq in, for .40 - .45 power and 4 channel radio.

Quote: "Seamaster 40. Designed by Ken Willard.

The Ace Seamaster 40 is designed and engineered to provide you with a nice looking, easy flying amphibian that goes together in a minimum amount of time with a minimum amount of frustration. Please read and follow these instructions to insure that these two goals are accomplished.

We recommend the use of modern cyanoacrylate (CyA) glues for the most part. There are many brands available (Jet, Pic, Pacer, Alteco, Hot Stuff, etc) and they all have three basic viscosities available: thin (for close fitting balsa joints), thick (for plywood, hardwood, and not-so-perfect balsa joints), and very thick (for joints where a filet or 'bead' is required.) For the most part, we recommend the thick variety used in conjunction with an accelerator or 'setter' which cures the glue upon com-mand. Epoxy is recommended for the engine nacelle compo-nents. Of course, any modeler has his favorite techniques of gluing but keep in mind that this is a water-going craft and water has a way of getting into everything, so don't use water soluble glues.

There are a few things to keep in mind when building this kit with its lite ply construction. It's a wonderful material that has a tremendous strength to weight ratio and is easy to work. It should punch out of the die cut sheets easily; if not, sand the back of the sheet a bit. Some cutting with an X-acto knife may be needed. Some warping of the material is normal and the key lock construction technique eliminates this being a problem. Also, one side of the lite ply is generally beuer than the other which may have some dark streaks, knots, and fill. Simply keep the good side to the outside of the structure.

We have used various finishing techniques on the prototypes, all of which were successful. Plastic film is the quickest, easiest, and usually prettiest. BUT, keep in mind again that water permeates everywhere so overlap the joints at least 1/4 in and reseal all edges a couple of times to make sure the joints are secure, especially in the hull area. It would be a good idea to go over all the exposed edges with very carefully applied thin CyA.

If you choose to use paint, we recommend that the hull be fiberglassed with 3/4 oz cloth and resin, or cover it with Silkspun or Supershrink Coverite before painting. Avoid too much paint buildup so weight doesn't accumulate.

Although the plane looks bigger, a good .40-.45 two cycle or a .60 four cycle flies the Seamaster nicely; don't be tempted to put a screaming .60 schneurle two cycle on it - the plane is not structurally stressed for it. Realize the Seamaster 40 is not a pattern ship; it is a mildly acrobatic sport ship for pleasing, predictable performance off land and water.."

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Note: Original plan scan by MileHighHerbaFly to RC groups at https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3088011-Looking-for-Ace-Seamaster-40-Plans

Supplement file of Ace R/C kit manual, (complete, 12 pages) thanks to aspeed, found online at https://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?p=2337826

Supplementary files

Kit manual.

Corrections?

Did we get something wrong with this plan? That happens sometimes. Help us make a correction

 

User comments

Are there no drawings for the bulkheads?
anon - 07/07/2018
This is all we have here. It was kit plan of course. Anyone got more on the formers?
SteveWMD - 07/07/2018
Although we do have two other versions of the Seamaster plan, so maybe that helps. Three, if you count the Seamaster II. Maybe check this one against the others?
SteveWMD - 07/07/2018
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Notes

* Credit field

The Credit field in the Outerzone database is designed to recognise and credit the hard work done in scanning and digitally cleaning these vintage and old timer model aircraft plans to get them into a usable format. Currently, it is also used to credit people simply for uploading the plan to a forum on the internet. Which is not quite the same thing. This will change soon. Probably.

Scaling

This model plan (like all plans on Outerzone) is supposedly scaled correctly and supposedly will print out nicely at the right size. But that doesn't always happen. If you are about to start building a model plane using this free plan, you are strongly advised to check the scaling very, very carefully before cutting any balsa wood.

 

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