Vulcan 50

 

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Vulcan 50 - completed model photo more pics (4)

Vulcan 50  
by Mike Whittard
from RCME
November 1985 
50in span
Tags: IC R/C Cabin
all formers complete :)
got article :)


Submitted to Outerzone: 01/05/2018
Outerzone planID: oz10057 | Filesize: 781KB | Format: • PDFbitmap | Credit*: Circlip, RFJ

   

About this Plan

Vulcan 50. Radio control sport model. For 1.5cc engines or 02 size four-strokes.

Quote: "Vulcan 50. Half size version of D.A. Russell's hugh Vulcan free flight model redesigned by Mike Whittard.

NO ONE CAN DENY that some of the large vintage designs are very attractive. They do however have some drawbacks. One is cost, fifteen or eighteen inch wing cords represent about two ribs per sheet of balsa! The other problem is posed by their size. I know from experience that transporting a 9ft span model is a bit of a deterrent to flying it every weekend.

For the above reasons, I have already produced a half-sized Rudderbug (oz6998) which is great fun, thus encouraged I essayed DA Russell's Vulcan at half-size which comes out at 49-1/2in span, hence the title near enough '50' and 50% the size of the original. I have attempted to retain pretty well all the features of the original Vulcan, but in some details, some simplification has been desirable, whilst some detail re-design has been incorporated to simplify and speed construction.

Although it looks a complex machine, taken step by step it is easy and fast to build. I built mine and test flew it in less than a fortnight. I will admit to a fair consumption of midnight oil though!

Fuselage structure. As the fuselage requires most work due to the installation of radio, motor etc. I like to get this out of the way first. Cut out the ply formers F1 to F5 inclusive and F8A, plus undercarriage beams. Lay these

to one side and build two flat side frames. These are shown shaded on the plan. I found that the top and bottom longerons needed soaking in hot water to keep the bends — after I took the frames off the board! I overcame the problem by running them under the hot water tap, pinning back on the plan and using my heat-sealing iron to 'cook' the longerons. Ten minutes or so of this treatment enabled me to remove the frames from the board with no springing out of shape.

While the frames are setting, take Fl & F2, assemble them onto the engine bearers ensuring that the bearers are square to the formers and a parallel to each other. I normally tack-glue a couple of spacers between the formers to maintain alignment. These can be cut from scrap 1/8 or 3/16 in sheet and removed after the formers have been added to the side frames. With a medium cut flat file, trim the vertical edges of the formers to allow for the nose taper. The tailwheel leg should be bent up and sewn to F8A and the sewing coated with epoxy or balsa cement. The original Vulcan featured rubber-band springing, with the band looped over the tailplane retaining dowel.

I dithered somewhat over incorporating this feature, but I'm afraid laziness prevailed and I convinced myself that the torsion bar effect of the shape would be O.K. The two undercarriage band hooks should be sewn to F2 and also coated with epoxy. The basic sides can now be assembled to F3, F4 and F5 together with the undercarriage beams. This is best accomplished with the fuselage inverted over the plan. Draw in the tail adding the cross-pieces and 1/8in. sheet infill at the tail. Now carefully draw in the nose and fit the F1/F2 assembly. I used cyano so did not need to clamp everything in place, but if you prefer to use a slower drying adhesive, clamps will be necessary..."

Vulcan 50, RCM&E, November 1985.

Direct submission to Outerzone.

Supplementary files

Article pages, thanks to RFJ.

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Notes

* Credit field

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Scaling

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