Chapter 9

 

Chapter 9

Focke-Wulf TA-192 - Hal Cover

The success of the FW-190 as a low and medium altitude fighter was well proven over England in 1941, however, the Luftwaffe soon found it needed a high altitude fighter aircraft to combat the increasing numbers of Allied bombers. Thus, work was initiated for various improvements on the basic FW-190. There were many versions built, too numerous to mention, and among them was the D Series 190. These, along with others, had a Junkers Jumo 213E, 12 cylinder liquid cooled engine. This basic configuration was subject to many modifications and eventually became the TA-152. The designations of all new versions of the FW-190 were changed as a result of a 1944 German Airforce policy, which named the designer in all new aircraft. Thus the FW-190 D variations were now called the TA-152, after designer Kurt Tank.


Sort of a stretched version of the FW-190, the proportions of the TA-152 are excellent for producing a flying scale model.
Sort of a stretched version of the FW-190, the proportions of the TA-152 are excellent for producing a flying scale model.
 

This plane had rather impressive performance figures and was said to have handled like a sailplane at altitude. The TA-152 was not used extensively in combat, its primary assignment being to fly cover for the jet powered ME-262. Most of the approximately 150 which were in combat squadrons were destroyed by ground strafing.

The TA-152 had a wingspan of 47 feet 4-1/2 inches, length 35 feet 1-2/3 inches, height 11 feet, area 250 sq. ft., power plant Junkers Jumo 213E, maximum HP 2,050 with injection. Performance: 475 MPH at 41,000 feet, ceiling 48,550 feet (Standard FW-190A, 408 MPH and ceiling 33,800 feet).


With its high aspect ratio wing, the TA-152 was said to handle like a sailplane at the high attitudes for which it was designed to operate.
With its high aspect ratio wing, the TA-152 was said to handle like a sailplane at the high attitudes for which it was designed to operate.
 

When you look at 3-views of the TA-152, it is immediately apparent that it will make a good scale model. It has reasonable dihedral, a long nose, slim fuselage and good ground clearance for a flying propeller. The only deviations from scale on the TA-152 presented here is an increase in stabilizer area. If you take your time and construct it carefully, you will be more than rewarded when you fly it.

GENERAL CONSTRUCTION HINTS

1. Carefully attach the plan halves together. This can best be done by aligning the borders, using a straight edge.

2. Study and understand the plans before you cut any wood.

3. Always use a sharp knife, preferably a razor blade. This helps to avoid mashing wood and gives clean, straight cuts.

4. When cutting out bulkheads, ribs, and outlines, take your time and avoid cutting too big a notch. Remember, once out, you can always make a notch wider, but it is rather difficult to make it narrower!

5. Place a sheet of plastic wrap over the olans where any cementing is to be performed.

6. Use a cement such as Titebond; it gives a strong joint and it has enough working time to allow you to correctly align the construction.

7. Don't go too heavy on sandpaper; use 6/0, 320 or 400, take your time, and use light pressure. Heavy pressure and coarse sandpaper can cause severe distortion of the structure. Also, the use of sanding blocks will help avoid dips and bumps.

FUSELAGE

Cut the top, bottom and side keels (items F-1 through F-7) out of medium grade 1/16 sheet. Cement the side, top, and bottom keels together over the plans and while these items are drying, cut the bulkheads out of medium 1/16 sheet. Cut the notches only where shown; mark the others and cut as required later in construction. Cement one side of bulkheads No. 3 through 12 vertically on the assembled top and bottom keel, making sure the slots for the side kee! are kept straight. Next, cement in the side keel. Move any bulkheads as necessary to keep the side keel straight. When this assembly is dry, remove from the plans and attach the other half of the bulkheads No. 3 through 12, also 8A.


With its big prop scooping up large chunks of air, Hal
With its big prop scooping up large chunks of air, Hal's TA-152 is off for another flight. The long scale landing gear permits use of a very efficient flying propeller.
 

The 1/16 square stringers may now be attached. Start at the nose and work back. Carefully align the stringers between the bulkheads which have notches, and as required cut out the remaining notches. To avoid pulling the fuselage out of line, do not put all stringers

on one side at once, but rather, alternate back and forth. The bottom four stringers will be attached after the wing is put in place. Glue 1/16 sheet between the stringers at Former 11 to provide an anchor for the 1/8 inch dowel used to hold the rubber.

The cowl front is made from four disks of 1/8 sheet. These are cemented together with the grain crossed. Make sure cowl Former 2 is in the back and that Former C fits snugly into it. The nose plug is made from Formers A, B, and C, and two hardwood thrust plugs. Various areas to be sheeted can be left until a later operation.

TAIL SURFACES

The construction of the stabilizer and rudder are conventional and simple, but it is very important to make sure all joints fit well, not filled with glue, because sloppy fits lead to warps. All outlines are cut from medium 1/16 sheet. Use hard 1/16x1/8 for the stabilizer leading and trailing edge and hard 1/16 square for the flat ribs.


The long nose moment of the TA eliminates the need for extra weight for balancing. Long tail moment improves stability. Rounded fuselage is a natural for half-shell construction.
The long nose moment of the TA eliminates the need for extra weight for balancing. Long tail moment improves stability. Rounded fuselage is a natural for half-shell construction.
 

The spar and trailing edge of the rudder are selected from hard 1/16 x 1/8 with hard 1/16 square ribs. After allowing to thoroughly dry, remove from the plans and sand lightly with a sanding block. Shape the leading and trailing edges to a streamlined shape but not knife edge.

WING

The wood used in the wing construction should be strong, since the landing gear is supported by this structure. Medium grade 1/16 sheet is used for the wing ribs and tips. Hard 1/8 square is used for the landing gear spar. Other wood should be selected from straight medium grade balsa.

Pin the leading and trailing edges and 1/8 sq. spar in place, taking care to obtain a good fit on the leading edge splice. Cement ribs No. 2 through 20 in place and add the 1/16 x 1/8 top spar. When both halves are dry, remove from the plans and add the dihedral by carefully fitting the two spars, leading, and trailing edges together, with 1-3/4 inches dihedral under each tip. Fit rib No. 1 in place and cement in the dihedral.

Sheet the wing center top with 1/32 light sheet. You will note the sheeting is flush with the spars, leading and trailing edge, it does not lay over them. Sand the leading and trailing edges to the required shape and make sure there are no lumps or burrs on the surfaces.

LANDING GEAR

The landing gear used on this plane is quite strong and should present no structural problems if properly installed. Carefully bend a right and left (mirror image) gear from 1/32 piano wire. It should fit snugly over the 1/8 square, along the rib and through the rib and against the upper wing spar. A hard 1/16 sheet fillet is added to the bottom of the wing, which helps trap the wire. It is recommended that regular model glue be used for the gear attachment, using several light coats rather than one or two heavy coats.


Mountainous area west of Los Angeles, California makes an excellent background for the TA as it appears to be making a turn for its final approach to a landing.
Mountainous area west of Los Angeles, California makes an excellent background for the TA as it appears to be making a turn for its final approach to a landing.
 

The wheels are laminated cross grain out of medium 1/8 sheet. Cement washers on both sides of each wheel so they turn freely and accurately. Then sand the wheel to the shape shown.

PROPELLER

A six or seven inch Kaysun propeller may be used if desired. Or if you want to carve your own, select a hard balsa block 6-1/2 x 1-3/8 x 7/8, and drill the propeller shaft hole prior to cutting out the basic outline. Carve and finish the back side of the propeller first. Then carve the front until you have a 1/16 to 3/32 thick blade. (Did you carve a right hand prop? That's what it should be!)

The prop shaft is formed from 1/32 piano wire. Slip the nose plug, which was assembled previously, 2 washers, and the propeller on the shaft, then bend the wire as shown on the plans and press into the prop. Coat with several light coats of cement.

The spinner is carved from a 1 x 1 x 1-1/4 block. To get proper alignment, it is best to tack it on the prop, hook a short motor onto the shaft and wind in a few turns, eyeball align the spinner as the prop unwinds. When satisfactorily aligned, glue permanently in place.

ASSEMBLY AND COVERING

Secure the wing to the fuselage, taking care that it is properly aligned. Do not attach the stab and rudder until later. Add fillet F8 to each side and then the remaining four bottom stringers. Cement in place the 1/32 sheeting in front of the wing and in the cockpit area. Next, the large 1/32 sheet wing fillet is added. This operation is best done by soaking the pieces in water. Cement between the stringers and against Bulkhead 9, and bend out to follow the contour of Former F-8. It is best to feather edge this area so it blends evenly into the wing and fuselage. The narrow front half is positioned at a 45° angle to the wing and runs forward to the leading edge. The best method of keeping this fairing in place while it is drying is to find a comfortable chair, sit down and hold it in place.

Sand the entire structure carefully. Since only those members of the fuselage which run from the nose to tail should touch the covering it is best to sand the bulkheads to a scalloped shape (Note the framework pictures). This can be done with a dowel or other object with fine sandpaper wrapped around it.

Apply a light coat of sanding sealer to all surfaces which will touch the covering, sand lightly and apply a second coat. When you are sure all surfaces are smooth, you are ready to cover. The tail surfaces are first. Apply a coat of thinned dope to the outline of the surface and stretch the tissue over the frame. Gently rub the tissue against the doped areas as you pull out the tissue. When dry, trim and dope down the loose edges. Both sides are done in the same manner.

The author found it easiest to cover the fuselage with full length strips of tissue slightly wider than the space between adjacent stringers. This may sound tedious, but by cutting the tissue with a straight edge you will find it will lay along one stringer, and when the dope is dry, all you have to do is trim off the exposed side. Repeat a strip at a time around the fuselage. Cover the wing in a similar manner to the tail surfaces. A separate piece of tissue will be needed to cover the top of the tip.


Only deviation from scale to improve flight performance was enlargement of the stabilizer. Long fuselage permits a substantial amount of rubber for long powered flights. Watch out for those thermals, you may lose it!
Only deviation from scale to improve flight performance was enlargement of the stabilizer. Long fuselage permits a substantial amount of rubber for long powered flights. Watch out for those thermals, you may lose it!
 

Slide the stab in place, align, and glue to both the top and bottom stringers. Attach the rudder. When all glue is dry, carefully check that all tissue is attached and not just laying in place. Lightly water spray the entire structure. Allow to dry at room temperature, don't force the drying with heat. While the structure is drying, the landing gear doors are covered with tissue and cemented to the landing gear with several thin coats of cement.

Apply one light coat of dope (50/50 dope and thinner). If you do not plan on painting the plane, add tissue trim as required and add one more coat of dope.

It is recommended, if you want to paint a scale type paint job, that you use a good air brush. This allows the use of a minimum amount of paint without adding significant weight. (The author's plane, with paint and rubber, weighed 1.4 ounces). The colors used were flat aero blue on the bottom with flat olive drab and artillery olive for the top camouflage effect. Paint the inside of the cowl, the nose plug, prop and spinner flat black.

Add control surface lines and any other desired lines using a lettering pen and India ink. Be sure, after the lines are dry, to lightly spray with clear flat, otherwise the lines would come off with water.

The cockpit is then cemented in place, carefully, using regular model cement. Other numerous details are added at this point. The exhaust stacks, painted black or brown, are glued to the sides as shown in pictures. Paint the wheels black prior to placing them on the axles. The wheels are held in place with a washer soldered or glued to the end of the axle. Additional details can be added by checking photos and 3-views of the real plane. (See scale references below)

FLYING

Four strands of 1/8 inch rubber will be needed to power the model. Make a fork out of 1/8 x 3/8 by cutting a notch in one end which is biggefr than the rear dowel. Loop the rubber over the fork and slip into the fuselage. When you can see the opening of the fork through the dowel hole, slip the dowel in place and pull out the fork. Hook the other end of the rubber to the prop. Now balance the plane 1/8 inch back from the leading edge at the tips.

If possible, test the model over tall grass while preliminary adjustments are being made. Initial adjustments should be made in the glide by moving the balance point forward if it stalls and backward if it dives. If any major change is necessary, you probably have bad warps and they should be removed by steaming over a tea kettle. Down-thrust and side thrust should be added as necessary to obtain a large left hand circle under power. The glide can be right or left. For maximum winds, the motor may be wound using a winder. This is done by removing the prop assembly, hooking the motor to the winder, stretching the motor two to three times its slack length, and winding. It is best to test a motor outside the plane so you know how many turns it will take. After you get your Focke-Wulf flying, you'll want to put on your hob nail boots and click your heels as it flys overhead!

REFERENCES

"War Planes of the Third Reich," William Green, Doubleday & Company. Library of Congress No. 88-29673.

Profile No. 94, Focke-Wulf FW 190/TA-152 Series. Profile Publications limited, Coburg House Sheet Street, Windson, Berkshire, England.

"Focke-Wulf 190 & TA-152 Series 1," No. 9 Technical Manual. Published by Kookabufra'Technical Publications, Australia. North American Distributor, J.W.C. Publications, Sun Valley, California.

 
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